Hi Guys-

New guy here with a couple focused questions about the choke on a 73 W100 225.

I have the electric "assist" choke that runs through the resistor? block on the manifold and leaking 1920 .

As usual, some PO capped vac lines, destroyed choke, installed cable choke, etc.

I have a rebuilt by Auto Line 1920 and a (assume from experience) decent Standard Hygrade choke.

I bought the factory manuals, but the grainy pics don't show *how* the choke rod attaches to the 1920.
The rod isn't drilled-so no cotter pin, it's not grooved, so no e-clip...

First question-
Does anyone have a clear pic or part number of how the choke rod attaches to the 1920 butterfly arm?

Second question-
Is the component that the electric choke runs off of a simple resistor, is it reactive to the manifold heat passing less as it gets hotter? (positive temp co-efficient?) Is this part reliable, and if not has anyone tried the Standard Ignition Thermistor in it's place?

This truck might see 3k miles in a hard year- it doesn't have to run like a 2022, but it does have to start in the NE winters or it's not really useful. I did my research here and elsewhere-it's not a daily driver- I'm good with Carb/Ign/Tuning. It need not be perfect, it needs to not have a choke cable and let me move on to other stuff for now.

Thanks in Advance

_________________
I just did the math.
I need to live past 500 to finish all my projects.

You've already got a pretty tall pile of hassles to contend with (previous owner's hack-and-slash vandalism of the engine bay, almost-guaranteed-to-be-junk "remanufactured" carburetor, etc); you will serve yourself well by ditching the nonadjustable factory-type choke that doesn't work very well and contributes a giant chunk to the reputation of early '70s Mopars for bіtchy cold start/run behaviour. Instead, get a № 1231 electric choke kit, which is fully adjustable and—bonus!—comes with the linkage clip needed to attach the pushrod to the carburetor lever.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the reply and the resource. Attached are some reference pics I found for someone with a similar question.

I have a bunch of stick time on QJets and was thinking of this style clip (which is also found in different sizes for door linkages etc) I believe this is the style that I was looking for (like a pal nut almost) Someone gave me the rebuilt carb new in the box.
I thought I was done playing with Berryman Carb dip.
I never liked factory rebuilt carbs- I get it- especially QJet/AFB/anything complicated.
Is there something specific to Holley 1920s that they never get right, or is it Auto Line, or just in general?
If I can "fix" a common issue on the clean carb before I install it, that's fine.
Not particularly interested in cracking open a pail of liquid death unless it's my only option.

The resistor "block" on the manifold in series before the choke:
Is that temp sensitive, just a fixed resistor, do they typically fail, and do the improved kits require them?

Thanks again for the assist- hopefully someone finds the carb linkage clip pics helpful...

_________________
I just did the math.
I need to live past 500 to finish all my projects.

Yep, that's the correct type. They come in lefty and righty; you need the correct-handed clip so the choke pushrod enters the choke lever from the rear, with its end pointing forward.
Both/all. Even if it's only ever touched carefully and knowledgeably (which rules out any carburetor remanufactory that's existed in at least three decades), eventually they reach a hard end of life. They get clogged up with powdery "metal mould" corrosion that cannot be cleaned out and they are done. Abusive and careless "remanufacturing" processes greatly hasten this, on top of the usual damage—abrasive cleaning detroys close tolerances and strips off the surface passivation, making corrosion much faster and worse, etc.

The problem is, this is 2022 and worthy new carburetors are scarce and costly. A medium-close second preference (old-stock rebuilts from back when they still stood a decent chance of being decent) is also getting scarce and costly, though you can check with the likes of Old Car Parts Northwest.
I really can't blame you there; you're absolutely right about that.
Yes.
They certainly can, though it's sometimes difficult to tell because they didn't work well even when they were new.
No, it gets eliminated. The wire that originally ran to the choke resistor goes to the new choke housing, which gets its ground via the other wire which ends in the new thermo-sensor.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks so much for your help-

So I have a rebuiltish carb and a new choke in my hands and the only thing missing is a clip to try it for free- plus not playing with the yellow/green cancer.

Between having that all over me running race night resto-mod cars in the day, bare handed Trichloroethylene in 50 gal drums in the USAF, and my decades of tenure in semiconductor mfg- I'm pretty full up on exposure at this point.

Assume identical stupid plugging of vac lines and compromises I'm living with now-

If a leaking cable choke hack set up runs better than a ?rebuild and OEM choke set up, I can and will bolt it right back on- maybe throw a bowl gasket on it hope for the best, and move on the ridiculously ineffective front drum brakes.

_________________
I just did the math.
I need to live past 500 to finish all my projects.