2/20/23:
It has Been a while.
I still have the F bodies, however the Quantity briefly went up to 4 as I did find a very nice 1978 4 door Beige Sedan on craigslist back in 2013. -
The 1980 Sedan was sold off and I kept the 78 sedan for almost 10 years.
It had Just over 24,000 Miles on it when I bought it almost 10 years ago and I fixed some things on it here and there. Adding about 2000 Miles on it since 2013. It was probably the nicest F body I had owned, It had the Original Exhaust, Resonator Muffler etc with the pentastars Stamped in them as well as a very Factory Fresh Engine compartment and interior. It also Had Original paint, with dings road rash and scratches, but no rust of previous paint repairs or sheet metal work at all since 1978, which was amazing for any car from 1978 let alone an f Body.
Similar Scene, With the 1978 Sedan as the 1980 Sedan's Stunt double.
The '78 Sedan is now sold and found a buyer who will appreciate it for what it is.
Back to the '79 Duster.. I put a new fuel tank and sending unit in back in 2011 from spectra premium. Tank started leaking when it was topped off, as well as the fuel gauge stopped working as well.
Got it up on the Lift, Drained the tank and found the fuel sending unit to be rotted causing the leak. I kept the OE sending unit that I removed from the tank in 2011. It needed some repair and I got it to read close to the proper readings. The spectra premium parts send incorrect resistances to the fuel gauge anyway, so I would need a Meter match box to "condition" the fuel sending unit resistance curve so that the Fuel gauge reads correctly.
Some Shots of the Unit being repaired:
Had to resolder the thin brass metal that moves against the resistance wire....It popped off during 10 years of storage.
I should have spent more time futzing with it here - 21Ω gets the gauge to 3/4 tank... 10Ω will get the needle to Full.
I also was able to swap some upgraded brake parts that were cast off from my Grüne Hölle project. Slotted and Drilled rotors replaced the salty, crusty, rusty Chrysler 10.97" Rotors.
Also Bought Some New EBC Yellows.. The feel is not so rock hard compared to the Parts store pads for the "repurposed" rotors.
Braking feel is immensely better, with the ability to modulate too.
I got the car off the lift and took it for a test drive and now the fuel system is acting up.. I might have to drain and drop the tank again to replace the sock filter on the pickup tube or it could just need a new high pressure fuel filter. I have already replaced the Fuel pump with a brand new MSD 2225 and it's exhibiting the same symptoms of fluctuating / low fuel pressure when Injector pulse widths climb up.
On the '79 Wagon I installed a Hitch!
I had found a hitch on Craigslist a year or 2 ago, it was missing parts ( the L shaped "ears") so I had to fab them up and do some mock up. I am finishing it now, It looks like it will turn out pretty nice.
The Upper part of the hitch tube has long welded bars that extend up and bolt under the tailgate or tail lights on the rear bumper support to frame plate. (longer 3/8" bolts are required as the factory bumper to frame bolts will be too short.
The "Ears" Bolt onto the hitch and extend back to the bumper's crash impact absorber bolt that goes through the unibody frame rails next to the gas tank and above the leaf springs on either side. This is essentially a 13" L Shaped piece of metal with 2 holes drilled in it. - 1 hole for the receiver hitch frame and the other for the big bumper absorber bolt in the frame.
I will finish the project up with some satin black paint and do the final install and torque tomorrow and Come back to add some trailer wiring for a flat 4 connector.
Some Pictures:
I don't have a before picture of the Hitch But It had a goofy 1-5/8" Receiver tube so That Had to go and get replaced with a 2" tube.
Some Fab Pictures... you get the idea of what this hitch looks like here..
Mock up in the car / under the rear bumper.
In my situation I found that it hit the tailpipe so I bent it down a bit to clear and not hit the hitch frame... more on that later.
In this picture you can see where it bolts to the Bumper Retention plate on the inside of the impact absorbers.
Another angle showing the plate and bolt location:
My hitch actually contacts the lower lip on the rear bumper... Mirada, Diplomat, Gran Fury, Caravelle, and '80 Aspen /Volare may be different somehow.
Stock 3/8" Bolt Removed from Rear plate - It's too short - Replaced it with a 1" or 1-1/4" Long Grade 8 Bolt with Washer.
Template for my "Ears"
Ears cut and installed for mock up.
Right Side Ear .. I added a New attachment point for the exhaust hanger.. To keep the tailpipe ~3/4" Lower
In the "Paint Booth"
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We flushed the gunk out of the fuel pump and
