You're basically patterning off item "c" in the left photo of this post. They did it with an original-type choke thermostat and brazed rod. You can do it that way, but if you don't have access to brazing equipment or expertise, there are other ways, too. Whatever way you choose, start with a № 1234 Electric choke kit. Cut a couple inches off the upper end of its pushrod.

Now, if you're not brazing, attach something like an appropriately-sized electrical ring terminal to the shortened pushrod. You'll be fabricating a new sort of "3 sides of a box" piece out of carefully-bent stainless rod. Try to minimise the mass/weight of any components you might add to your pushrod, though you may have to figure out a way to reinforce the horizontal portion of the 3-sides-of-box piece (which will be passing through the ring terminal, front to back) so it won't bend/flex and create lost motion in the choke. Groove the transverse rod for retainer clips to be installed in front of and behind the ring terminal to keep the transverse rod from moving fore and aft. I know someone who is working on this project right now; I'll see if he wants to jump in this thread and contribute his pics and thoughts.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi all,

As Dan alluded to, I'm tired of all the rain and been working away on adding a choke to my setup.

I have had this setup for years without a choke, so decided to try and fabricate one. Not being able to weld the "C" to the choke pushrod, I spent some time browsing the hardware looking for some possibilities.


Here's what I have on the bench:

• 1/8" diameter 3' rod in brass and steel. The steel is harder to bend, so I'm going to start mockups with brass to make adjustments
• stainless electrical ring terminal--slides on to the end of 1/8" rod and has a 1/8" hole to fit the "C" section going to the carbs
• 1/8" c clips: planning to slot the rod and put these on either side of the ring terminal
• 1/8" ID stainless shaft collars: easier to use and adjust but might be too heavy
• JB Weld to hold the ring terminal in place on the choke pushrod

I working on figuring out the right length for the arms of the C going to the carbs to keep them away from the linkages. I'm using Carter BBS, so it may be slightly different than your Holley lengths. I'm starting at 3" for those sections.

C section bend:


Pushrod attachment:


I plan to do some work with the manual choke this weekend to figure out the right lengths and then adapt to my electric choke when it arrives. I'll plan to remove the existing pushrod in the choke and make one from the 1/8" rod so I don't have to chop the rod off a perfectly good choke.

I'll post up pictures and thoughts after I get some work done.

I ended up just using some spare 14g solid wire to do some mockups. I am going to try and make the C larger and go behind the linkage to avoid some interference on the accelerator pump and the spring. I went ahead and put a straight section of 1/8" rod into the choke to get the angles approximated and will try my first test bend next.

New Pushrod


Front Link:


Rear Link:


Linkage interface:


Measures about 4.5" by 10" in the mockup

Suggest making both wires/rods hook forward from the rear of the choke lever, rather than rearward from the front of the lever, to avoid hitting the choke lever-to-fast-idle-cam link.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well lost one of the set screws, but here's the mockup.

I'm not sure how the throw and angle of the rod will work out, but figured I'll wait until I get the automatic choke to setup first. Hope it helps!

For anyone interested, I have a set up like this for sale. Look in the for sale section. Let me know. I’m sure something can be worked out. Thanks, Steve.

Thank you slantsixdan and newlancerman for the info and pictures. It will sure help me with mine when I start it.