Quote:
The manifold nuts were about the nightmare I expected. None broke (but I did break one on the divorced choke thermostat
Groan. You might want to take the opportunity to un-handcuff yourself from the '70-'72 exhaust manifold, and at the same time greatly increase the odds that your R&R job will wind up tight/unleaky and with everything working for a long time.
Specifically, the '70-'72 manifolds have an open "stove" (hole directly into the inside of the manifold) at the top of the № 5 runner. This is sealed (kindasorta, not very well) by a stamped sheetmetal cup that fits into the hole, with a (no longer available) gasket around its perimeter. On top of this cup is bolted the choke thermostat. If you are bound and determined to run this manifold, and there's any kind of a fault with or near the choke—doesn't work quite correctly, rod all tweaked and bent, rusty AF, exhaust leaks, etc—fabricate a blockoff plate and cut a suitable gasket for it, then plop a № 1231
electric choke kit on and be permanently done with choke problems.
Given its age, this manifold is likely warped, and there's a high likelihood of cracks and/or heat control valve faults as well, so unless you have no budget, you're best off installing a
carefully chosen new exhaust manifold. Good idea to put in all new manifold studs while you are at it; it can easily save you multiple kinds of aggravation and badness later on. Find hardware and mounting-technique info
here and
here.
It is
very much worth your while to get the
good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head, intake-to-exhaust, and exhaust-to-headpipe junctions.
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