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PostPosted: Thu Nov 14, 2024 5:35 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2023 5:12 am
Posts: 146
Location: Hudson Valley, NY
Car Model: 1964 Dart 270 4-Door
EC_CO — Please do read Dan's citations,

I honestly do believe that they help to make my point, and will help you understand what I was trying to say regarding soldering versus those commonly-available crimp connectors.

Whether you choose to re-do any of your connections is, of course, up to you, but do consider that if you were ever to decide to, or to have a problem, the absolute best time to re-do them would be now, with the dashboard out of the car and on a nice stand, rather than upside-down on your back under the dashboard, kicking the headliner.

– Eric


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2024 3:47 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8721
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
I will add my 2 cents to this discussion. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a properly crimped connection in a automotive application. I worked for a manufacturer of Emergency vehicles (fire trucks-ambulance) for several years. We purchased the main wiring harness from a "vender". This was installed in the vehicle, then connections were made from the main harness to the individual components using butt connectors. The connectors were the type that had "shrink" tubing and "sealant" as part of the connector. Of course, a proper crimping tool is essential.

These are the type connectors and tool we used.
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Product.aspx?pc=STC-B
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Appliance ... =8-67&th=1

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2024 4:33 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2023 5:12 am
Posts: 146
Location: Hudson Valley, NY
Car Model: 1964 Dart 270 4-Door
Not to say that this applied to the vehicles you built, but, as someone who spent the better part of the 1990s driving around in ambulances (I recall Collins, but there were other manufacturers as well), I can tell you they used a lot of those "generic" crimp fittings, and we had constant electrical problems, especially with charging.

Of course, we did beat the poop out of them.

Those crimpers you linked to are the type that just make a single curved "crush" (kind of like () ) and are not the types described in Dan's links, which are military-approved, etc., and which make very specific round indentations.

I will not dispute whether they worked well for you, or for anyone else, because I think we've definitely entered "YMMV" territory here, but I have used them, and I have removed them after others installed them, because they failed, and I genuinely believe they don't work very well (note that a 5% failure / 95% success rate, in a connector hidden way up behind the dashboard, leaves room for far most cursing than I want to do most days).

I was trying to be helpful by making a suggestion that could save some future frustration, and I thought that what I was suggesting would be completely non-controversial, but it seems that this might be a topic I need to avoid, like oil filter selection.

I'm sorry this got so much attention.

– Eric


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2024 8:33 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2015 6:19 pm
Posts: 318
Location: Florida
Car Model:
I don't build/repair airplanes, I know how to solder, I have never had a crimped/solder connection fail thru normal use, I have had to repair plenty of crimped connections, I do not have any specialized assortment of crimp tools for each different crimp connection, my stuff gets wet, I use heat shrink whenever possible, I don't need a permit to solder anything, and in over two decades I have never found the need to put anybody on ignore.
Respectfully, I guess I am lucky or too dumb to know better. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2024 3:42 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:17 am
Posts: 81
Location: Denver, CO
Car Model: '70 Barracuda /6 3spd
I appreciate everybody's input and recommendations.

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1970 Barracuda 225 /6, 3spd on the floor, Blue/Blue


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