I wouldn't trust the ratings on any fuel pump from the parts store. They are all made in China, probably by the same factory with a different label on the box. And the Chinese don't care about quality, just the money.

What I would do, is install a fuel regular, a fuel pressure gauge and "dial in" the correct amount of pressure. And I would not use the cheesy inline style with the rotary dial as they don't work. So you need to use the T (Holley) style in a deadhead configuration and reroute you fuel line as necessary.

That should solve your problem.

If you are still having problems such as boiling the fuel and empty fuel bowls from evaporation, then you need to do a return style of fuel system. This would include an electric fuel pump back by the tank, a return style of regulator and a return line back to the tank. Any other "solution" is half assed at best. And this is not a "race car" fuel system. It is almost a necessity with today's fuels and carburetors. Especially if your state has decided to follow California solutions for air quality control.

Oh, the 1/8" inch hole in a 3/8" fitting is an attempt to "regulate" the fuel pressure.

This seems a bit complicated for someone who just wants a functional stock fuel pump for a completely stock car, no?

I drove this car in 100°F temperatures this summer with no vapor lock problems, with completely original fuel lines.
I did replace my disintegrated original fuel sender with a later-model sender with a return barb, so I can add a return line at any time, if I want to.

I did buy a NORS AC pump and install it, and it puts out 5psi and appears to be working fine.

I do have an "empty float bowl" problem after leaving the car for a day, but I believe that is due to a leaky factory plug at the bottom of the float bowl (Carter BBS), under the inlet. I may try to epoxy it, but it's not my biggest problem right now.

Thanks anyway,

– Eric

My '74 Duster has been sitting around in various garages for 25 or so years. There is a nice shiny new fuel pump on the engine. I did not install this fuel pump. This fuel pump puts out 8psi and has caused all sorts of problems.

The you tube channel "Muscle Car Solutions" suggests the installation of a fuel regulator as an extra tuning aid, because you don't know how the carburetor will respond. Another you tube channel "Dead Dodge Garage" suggests that stock replacement pumps never needs a regulator. The you tube channel "318willrun" says that a stock fuel pump can propel his cars to 13 second quarter miles. All of these can't be true.

A stock \6 fuel pump should but out 19gph at 4.5 psi. This is good for about 145hp. How may replacement pumps actually do this any more? The replacement parts industry doesn't care. If the pump is "defective" they just replace it with a different part, which also may be "defective". But all of these parts have passed various manufacturing tests and are made in factories that pass various ISO standards.

It is up to you to protect yourself.

Agreed.

– Eric