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 Post subject: oil light
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 5:15 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
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The oil light in my Duster flickers on and off when the engine is hot, idling, and in gear. Take it out of gear and the light goes off. Bad sending unit? Makes no unusual noises or anything.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Actually sounds pretty normal - the oil pressure is at its lowest under those circumstances. If the light does more than a bit of flickering, the main bearings may be showing a bit of wear. But this doesn't sound too worrisome yet.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
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Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
Well, maybe not normal, but common in a very high-mile engine that's seen its share of use and abuse... The motor may have some life in it yet. I take it you have fresh oil in it? I recommend SAE 30. Kick up the idle a bit and see if that helps. If the light is coming on at idle, that would indicate the pressure is dropping below 5 to 7 psi.

D/W

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:48 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2004 9:43 pm
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Location: Portland, OR
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Wow, this topic is familiar!

I have EXACTLY the same issue WARM+IN GEAR+AT A LIGHT = FLICKERING OIL LIGHT. We've discussed it at several points here on SL6. I'm going to pull the pan, clean out the sludge, clear the screen and oil pickup, replace the oil pump (yes I know it's on the outside :)) and religiously change the filter. Since I have the pan off I'm ALSO going to check the mains.

Basically the situation with you sounds similar, but mine is also refusing to get oil to the bottom end for the 1st 10 seconds it's running, so it may be more serious.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2004 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
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Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
Quote:
Wow, this topic is familiar!

I have EXACTLY the same issue WARM+IN GEAR+AT A LIGHT = FLICKERING OIL LIGHT. We've discussed it at several points here on SL6. I'm going to pull the pan, clean out the sludge, clear the screen and oil pickup, replace the oil pump (yes I know it's on the outside :)) and religiously change the filter. Since I have the pan off I'm ALSO going to check the mains.

Basically the situation with you sounds similar, but mine is also refusing to get oil to the bottom end for the 1st 10 seconds it's running, so it may be more serious.
If you're going to do all that, why don't you go ahead and replace the bearings while you're in there? That's the one thing that will help the most, probably... I take it you saw (ad nauseum) the thread about the standpipe on the oil filter mount and filter brand choice as contributing factors to delayed pressure at start-up... Although you probably do have a bunch of crap in the pickup, too as you already know.

D/W

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:22 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
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Okay guy, I have very good news. I figured out what was causing the oil light problem. The little thingy (I think it is called the Dashpot) that holds the throttle open on my car failed. It was allowing the engine to idle down so far that I guess it dropped the oil pressure way too low. Anyway, I piddled with it for a while and got my idle speed back up to normal by playing with the bracket a little bit. I drove it today without incident. Thanks for the help anyway.

P.S. I figured out my vacum advance problems and got the hose correctly hooked to the carb. Needless to say I have discovered a stock slant has a good deal of power. Seems to have pull almost anywhere in the RPM range. It does'nt fade out anymore at around 3500 RPM. Makes me love my Duster even more.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2004 5:54 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2004 9:43 pm
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Location: Portland, OR
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Quote:
If you're going to do all that, why don't you go ahead and replace the bearings while you're in there? That's the one thing that will help the most, probably...
I surely will indeed do the mains (and rods) if I've got the time. The time issue will be if I can get it accomplished in time for my next term in college to begin, and thus will need the beast running. If I am actually going to do it then I am going to do it right and get the crank milled and matched for the correct size bearings. :)

Yes, I saw the VERY LONG thread on the filter/standpipe issue and I will be running ONLY Wix filters (NAPA GOLD) from here on out. As for Oil, I think from what everyone seems to say that I am going to run 30 Weight in the car with the new pump.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
Posts: 2378
Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
...I think you meant turned, as in crank turned ;)

Milling is for flat surfaces :idea:

Hint: changing the bearings (at least the rods) will be a cakewalk compared to pulling the pan and changing the oil pump in car. Godspeed, dude!

D/W

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 8:22 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2004 9:43 pm
Posts: 137
Location: Portland, OR
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Yea D/W I meant Turned :shock:

I suspect that doing the bearings won't be Too difficult, but having to wait until the last minute for the $$$ to get it all done makes me paranoid as hell, so I've just been going on the murphy's labor estimator table :wink:

Thanks for wishing me luck, I'm SURE i'll need it.

JRC

_________________
When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com


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