I need to help with linkages. The car is a 1963 plymouth savoy with the 904 transmission. The engine has been bored out with high compression pistons and a mopar performance cam. It has a offenhauser 4 barrel intake with a 1 inch phenolic 4 individual barrels spacer on it and a holley 8007 390 cfm 4 barrel. I need the best linkage setup for the throttle and kickdown (preferably a cable style). The carb is mounted with the lever on the drivers side.
Please let me know the best setup I just want to be driving this car again soon!

See this thread for kickdown options.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Welcome!

Lokar makes a few you might want to look at.
https://lokar.com/control-cables-mounting

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Hyper_pak

I have had a straight 10mm thick aluminum tube acting like kickdown linkage since 1999. It was a year when I put a BBD to 225. As I didnt have correct parts I made my own. There is rotating joints both the carburetor and transmission ends. This is ”flexible” solution. Years later I converted my 225 to efi with Clifford manifold and 318 efi throttle body and used exactly the same rod with just adjusting the lenght. Again many years later I swapped the engine to 170 and installed a T3/4 turbo using Mercur XR4 throttle body. Still using the same rod. Just a small design issue is to made the link at the 904 doing same movement as the rod does at the carburetor/throttle body. But it is a small task if man has a drill, grinder and welder!

Sorry no pictures of it. I am far away from my car now.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp. 101.6 MPH @ 1/4 mile.

This is how I had it setup before and it worked perfectly. I made the linkage similar to how you said but with the new locations of things its starting to get a bit hectic and im worried i may hook things up in a way that cause it to get stuck throttle open.That carburator + adapter + intake combo was not a good match for the engine for all conditions 500cfm
2 barrel was a bit of a bog. Only really worked good on hot days in the summer. All other times it was very hard to keep in tune.

You are very wise to think about this now, before the terrifying moment you are forced to wish you had.

Take a look at '69-up factory kickdown linkages, both cable and rod types, and you'll see they were all made with a long slot – usually up at the carburetor end – with the throttle lever pin pushing on the rod or cable end from one end of the slot. This way, motion of the throttle is transmitted via the linkage to the transmission, but yanking the linkage does not open the throttle. Considering how easy it would be for some random thing on (or off) the road to snag the lever at the transmission, or some other part of the linkage…this is the smart way to do it. Emulate that on whatever linkage you put together.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have always thought about converting the twist rod setup into a cable type. This was mainly a brainstorming idea of how to get carb flexibility while retaining the kickdown linkage.

My thought was to add another support to the twist rod as it passes through the firewall. The normal support would have a more rigid bushing added. This would give the twist rod 2 bushings with some space between them. In that space would be a solid spacer to keep it centered between the bushings. Next I would cut off the twist rod a short distance after the cam that connects to the kickdown.

This would effectively make the gas pedal operate only the kickdown itself. Then I would rig up an attachment point on the kickdown cam with a bracket for a throttle cable mount. The bracket for the cable mount would easily mount to the 3 bolts used for the twist rods bracket.

I never did make it past the brainstorming section and have since decided to go to a 5 speed setup so I likely never will. But I might mock it when I pull the 904 and I might do this idea anyway to retain the factory floor mounted gas pedal instead of the common hanging pedal setups.