Hello i have a 85 ram 150 with a 6 (225) and want to know what you slant 6 folks think about taking that engine and putting a .030 overbore with a blueprinted clifford performance head, header set, either clifford fuel injection or a dual webber carb set-up, and a clifford intake manifold or hyper-pak manifold and anyone know where i can get a performance ignition and distributor with coil also thanks

What's the goal? Right now, the way your post reads, it looks like your goal is to waste money.

I think you're dazzled by the expensive crud in the Clifford catalogue and
haven't thought through what you're going to do with the vehicle. The "recipe" you've asked about is one way to make a half decent drag car, or a completely unusable pickup truck.

What does your truck do now, that you want it to do differently or not at all?
What does your truck NOT do now, that you want it to do?
What kind of use do you intend for the truck?

I want the truck to have the power that I know it can have when I need it like hauling wood, charcoal, etc , etc, the truck doesent do for me is the dog ish acceleration rate that I wish was a bit more upto what it should be, the use of the truck would be dail driver and haul materials etc.

OK, that's what I thought, and that makes sense: You want the truck to do truck-type duty better than it does now. That means, as I suspected, your original "grocery list" of parts is completely, totally inappropriate. The setup you asked about would make a high-RPM screamer good for getting a lightened race car down the 1/4 mile in a hurry...and would severely reduce low-end torque and utterly kill driveability below 4000 RPM. Low-end torque is what you need for hauling, climbing hills and that kind of thing, not high-rpm horsepower.

I am guessing since you asked about all those non-stock parts that you don't have to pass emission tests with this truck. Is that correct?

What is the condition of the engine overall? You mentioned overboring it 0.030"; was that because the engine is tired and needs rebuilding? Or because you think an 0.030" overbore will make a power difference?

A much better recipe for a good torquer engine for a truck involves a 2bbl induction system (factory parts - Carter BBD carb), a recurved factory mechanical/vacuum advance distributor replacing the spark control computer, an "RV" cam, a mildly ported head and a set of Dutra Dual exhaust manifolds with a thoughtfully-designed exhaust system, all on an engine in good basic condition (whether that means the engine as it stands now or includes a rebuild). Not only will this list of equipment get you much, much closer to your goal than the stuff you asked about, it will cost about 80% less money.

I agree with dan, that you've suggested items to build a car and not upgrade a truck.

I currently have an '85 d-150 with a slant six. I have been improving on it for about 1 year.

The first step is to swap to electronic ignition, because lean burn does not lend itself easily to performance upgrades. You'll need to adjust the distributor to recurve the timing advance for low end torque.

Next, you can upgrade to a 2bbl carb if it doesn't already have one.

Finally, the factory truck exhaust may be larger than a car already, and not require much alteration. If it has a cheap catalitic converter, they are often restrictive and could be upgraded or removed depending on local laws.

If you don't do lots of highway travel in the truck or if you have oversize tires, then you may consider changing to a numerically higher rear end ratio.

My truck will haul a pretty big load of lumber and I occasionally drag a car around if needed. It's not as powerful as a bigger motor, but it gets the job done.

_________________
1980 Aspen 225 super six

Yea i do not have to pass emissions tests at all just a visual and startup and most of the time if the vehicle thats being inspected looks in good shape they will just slap a sticker on it and the motor has 75,000 original miles on it pretty low for a 225 slant and being a 1985 also but yea the truck has a restrictive catalistic converter and most likely going to replace the original intake manifold because i had a dart with a 225 six and the intake manifold cracked on me but the slants were known for cracking intake manifolds and i'm going to go with either a .410 lift 254 Adv Dur 208 Dur @ .050 or a .444 lift 264 adv Dur 206 dur @ .050 camshaft for the motor and most likely like you said a mild ported head and most likely going to replace the valves itself and maybe find a set of roller tappets for the truck Yea i do mostly do city/urban driving but i once and a wile do go onto Interstate and is it true that i got from AllPar.com that the 225 slant 6 made 90-100HP and 215 ft lbs of torque any clue of what increase in ft lbs the truck would make with the 4speed manual.

Yea do anyone know where I could get a performance ignition system including distributor, ignition box and ballast and what do you think about the dual webber carbs or a singel carter 2bbl

Dude, you need to learn where the keys for period (.), comma (,), exclamation point (!) and question mark (?) are on your keyboard and start usin' 'em if you want anyone to read your post. If you expect others to go to any trouble for you, you're going to have to put in a little effort of your own, understand?

Slant-6s are NOT known for cracking intake manifolds. They're known for cracking exhaust manifolds if the exhaust manifold is improperly installed.

The first cam you listed may be too large for what you want to do. The second one definitely is too large for what you want to do. Are you aware that most camshafts advertised for slant-6 engines won't work in your '85 because it has hydraulic lifters?

Roller tappets are a waste of time in a truck like yours. Quit living in the world of magic horsepower numbers printed in books and on webpages and start living in the real world where the only question that matters is "Does the truck do what you want it to do?".

We're trying to prevent you making an expensive mess of your truck. If you're determined not to take that advice, don't expect too much sympathy after you've spent the money and made the mess and want help cleaning it up.

Hey 225six,
I am not clear wether you have an automatic transmission or a manual transmission. Your biggest performance gain is going to come from changing the gears in the rear axle, not by tring to get more power out of the engine. I changed my 1987 D150 Slant 6 truck from 3.23 gears to 3.55 gears and it sure is a lot nicer around town and doesn't loose so much speed going up hills on the highway.

My engine RPM only when up about 250 RPM at 60 MPH with P235/75R15 tires.

If you are mostly driving around town then 3.91 gears may be a good choice but engine RPM's on the highway will start to go way up.

I wish there was a two-speed rear axle to fit under these trucks.

nope all i have is a 4spd manual i mostly do urban and highway driving

Usually, the 4spd transmission has an overdrive 4th gear in the '85 trucks. Check your rear axle ratio and let's figure out what you're starting with.

I wouldnt know what rear axle ratio i have ill have to check my owners manual after i herculiner the under sude of the truck and i put a rush inhbiting paint on the chassis

The owner's manual is not the place to look. You have a 20-year-old vehicle; many parts can have been swapped in 2 decades. You need to physically check the rear axle ratio. Do you know how?

Yea i know how if my memory serves you get the number of ring teet and the number of pinion and divide them if i remember correctly

Well, that's a good way to do it if you have the rear axle apart. But you don't, so use the method that works with everything bolted together. Lift ONE rear corner of the truck and put a jackstand under it so that one wheel is off the ground. Trans in Neutral, parking brake released (other wheels chocked to prevent the truck rolling!

Turn the tire until one of the rear U-joint caps is facing straight down. use chalk to mark the tire at the 3:00 position. Now rotate the tire through TWO complete turns while you count the number of U-joint caps that rotate into the "straight down" position, rounding up or down to the nearest cap and not counting the one you positioned straight down at the start. Then divide the total count by four. So:


A little over 16 caps = 4.10
A little under 16 caps = 3.91
15 caps = 3.73
14 caps = 3.55
13 caps = 3.23
12 caps = 2.93
11 caps = 2.76