Just finished my engine re-build, tranny was behaving ok before, only difference is Lokar kickdown cable, adjusted to pull all the way back at WOT.

When I give about half throttle from a stop it takes about what feels like a second to shift into gear, and I also have to get it to a high rev to get into 2nd.

At the moment the fluid is over-full, I will bring it to the proper level soon, would overfilling the tranny cause this type of problem? Does anybody know what else may be causing this problem? Thanks.

I think if it's been empty or sitting a while it may take a while for it to settle down. Get the level right and shift through the gears and stopping and starting and keep checking the level. Mine was completely dry after a rebuild and it took a while to get it to settle down. I'm sure someone else will chime in. How long was it dormant before you brought it back up?

Ok, I'll keep on it, thanks for the reassurance. It sat unused for at least a year, and the couple years before that were sketchy at best. Has anybody else had a similar problem on a rebuild?

What year are you working with?
Sometimes if the front pump bushing is worn, the torque converter "drains back" into the pan.
Try this test:
Start the engine and select neutral, let it idle in neutral for a few seconds, then select a gear. If it goes right into gear then it is most likely the drain back issue. (most 904s do not curculate much fluid to the converter when in "Park")
DD

1969 Valiant, I'll try that out tonight and let you know the results, thanks.

after idleing for a while, moving from neutral into D or into R, it shifts right away and pretty smoothly.

Is replacing the front pump bushing a huge task?

You have to remove the trans, use a special slide hammer to remove the front pump, dis-assemble it, drive out the seal and old pump bushing, reinstall the bushing, stake it, reinstall the front seal and then realign the pump halves before reassembling the gearbox. ( it is a lot of work)

Another option is to install a Trans-Go shift kit, the last one I used had a special shift valve that allowed converter fluid circulation when the trans is in Park
DD

Do you think the B&M shift kit would do the same? It seems easier to get ahold of.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails ... 51&PTSet=A

There have been a few more developments, after driving around for a while and shutting the car off then back on, I can't get it into gear. It just stays in idle if I move it to D, R, 1 , 2. If I wait about 10 minutes I can get into gear again.

Does this possibly indicate a problem besides the back drain problem mentioned above?

Thanks.

Pull the trans pan and see if the filter is cloged up.

Also, you say your Lokar cable pulls all the way back. The throttle lever does go rearward when motor is given more throttle BUT the Lokar cable pushes, not pulls, it rearward.

If you install a 'shift kit', the TransGo is a good kit. Most of the aftermarket shift kits are based on the TransGo. I like the fluid recirculation in Park feature Doc describes in the TransGo kit.
The cheapest ($35?) B&M is no good, the better ($65) B&M shift reprogramer is a good kit.


Cecil

I have a similar problem with my '68 Valiant.
The tranny used to slip into gears (within 4 seconds from a dead stop, I'd be in drive at 20 MPH). Now the car has sat for a year and when it's started and still cold, go into reverse or drive and it takes a few seconds and a tap on the gas for it to go to the right gear. Thirdly, the car has never had any kickdown in the 3 1/2 years I've had it.

I've always wondered about the linkage, but never knew how to go about fixing it.

This car has a Slant Six from a '77 Aspen and 2bbl carb, 7 1/4 rear.

The filter is brand new and the old one didn't seem clogged.

I'm gonna try to loosen the kickdown cable adjustment a bit, instead of all the way back at WOT I will try relaxing it a bit.

Then maybe the shift kit would be the next step.

Here's a quick picture to show how my cable linkage setup works

I'll keep you updated on my progress