I am having one hell of a hard time identifying my slant six. I have tried Allpar forums and slantsix.com forums to no avail. I have been told that there is a number near the #1 cylinder on the passengers side of the block. This number simply does not exist! I have pulled the alternator and the coil and the alternator mounting bracket and scrubbed the engine, and there simply is no number there. I was told vaguely that the engine was transplanted to my car from a '76, so I am needing to know if it's forged crank or cast, and I don't fully trust the guy who told me that (he's slow in the head).

Anyway, in my Haynes manual it says that there is a number stamped on a flat panel cast into the bluck just under the head and in front of the bell housing that indicates my engine number. This number I have found but it reads: 4oo591 76. I am very sure that the oo is smaller than the rest of the type and it is not just standard zeroes. I assume the 76 means it's a 76 and the 7 also is the kind with a line through the middle. The numbers that were cast into the drivers side of the block are as follows. a large: 030-11 followed by 0686:* (the second set of numbers is smaller and the * is a strange circular symbol). There is an AAWJ under the 0686:* These seem to be the only casting numbers on the block. The head numbers is virtually unreadable.

Please if anyone has any ideas I really need the help. I lost my patience with the guys at slantsix.com so I will be careful not to do so here. It's just that they were so sure there were numbers under the alternator and I sopent a lot of time chasing ghosts. Thanks for any help in advance.

Mark.....I followed the string over at .com, but chose to stay out of it at the time. (You were getting a bit miffed over there, and I didn't want to rub salt into a wound.)

First, a question; Is it possible that someone had the block worked on before you got it, and maybe had a bit of material shaved of the deck? (Classically, there really are id numbers stamped into a small pad in the deck surface, at the right front corner, hiding behind the alternator/mount.) We won't open up that problem again.

I suggest you go into the article section of this sight and read the engine article(s). I seem to remeber one of them has some pics that will help you id your engine. Look for the pic showing a casting rib behind the water pump boss. You can access the articles off of the main page.

Check that out and let us know if it helps.

Roger

Just a question.....Why would shaving off the deck obscure all traces that there was a pad there? I see the other pad (by the bell housing) and you could not possibly shave off so much as to obliterate that pad where those numbers are stamped.

Also I think that if someone shaved the deck you would think they might add other performance mods. Beleive me she isn't a high performer. I see nothing that would indicate the deck has been shaved....

Anyway I have mellowed out and had time to get over it, but I am still seeking an answer.....Next stop is those articles you mention. Thanks and I'll keep you posted.

The pad you are looking for is at the passenger side front of the block about 2 1/2 feet south of the bellhousing. It is stamped in the top of the block on a little pad that sticks out from under the head.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Mark....shaving the block wouldn't remove the pad, but might remove any numbers that were originally there. Are you saying there is no evidence of even a quite narrow pad at the right front of the block?

Roger

That's is indeed exactly what I am saying. There is no pad at all. As I said I stripped the block naked on that side (except the fuel pump). The is and never was any evidence of a pad. The only pad is on the back of the block and as I said it clearly says 4oo591 76. So that's it....that's the only numbers I have. I am still going o check the articles but haven't yet.

It sounds like a cast crank block.
The ID should be on the front pad but block decking will remove the stamping.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dutra- ... blocks.htm

Doh! Don't I feel stupid?!? I saw a pic of where the number is and I'll be damned that's where it is. Right on top of the alternator bracket mount point. I was searching un the underside and surface of the alternator bracket mount point. So what I came up with is:

6 225R 3 17

So tell me guys what year is my block and is it forged or cast crank?

This is what D-Idiot wrote:

0225 R 1024 E

0=model year or plant number (1970 or 1980 if model year)
225=Cubic inch displacement
R= engine usage code:
R=Passenger car engine

1024=shift it was built on

E=parts ID code:

A=oversize cylinder bore
E= Cast Crank shaft
X=o/s valves

These numbers aren't entirely conclusive either in some cases, my 1974 block just says 3W 225 4 06 on the pad

(1973, 225, 406 shift code...)


Can't wait til you open it up and ring the crank with a wrench to see if it rings or has a dull sound to it....
Otherwise, a 1980 cast crank passenger car mill...

-D.Idiot

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Lasse

Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23

So it's a '76 forged crank I must assume.....?

Is the forged crank really that much better in terms of a stock slant six?

i think the guys at .com need a "i did a oops " and move on and keep posting. . good helping people on both sites ,but a picture can really help when you are having a hard time with location. thanks doc. i bet you will never forget where those #'s are stamped on slants now!! as long as it hasn't been decked! just think about the next guy looking for help to try and find those slant #'s if he doesn't know exactly where they are located. now you can see how easy?hard?frustrating they are to find. it's all about helping the next guy out. so what's the first thing you are going to do to hop it up?

I am not planning on hopping it up at this time due to very low funds. I do however have this problem that when the engine sit's over night it goes 'knocka-knocka-knock' for a split second the first time it turns over the oil begins to flow. I am told this is my bearings showing wear.

I do however have a Fram oil filter and this car sat for some time. I didn't know Fram is so bad, and it was free because it was in a new box in the trunk.

I also have the problem that when the engine has run for over a half hour when it idles the oil light flickers (does not come on but flickers). It only flickers when I am in gear holding the brake (when it's at very low idle speed), and not while idling in park. I figure this could be the Fram, but quite possibly could be sludge in my pickup tube. In any case I may need to drop the pan and soon.

I needed to know forged or cast because it makes a difference in what bearings I need. Are bearings a real bitch to get in and out with engine in frame and crank in place?

If you plan to swap bearings with the engine in the car, getting the oil pan off and back on is the hardest part of the job.
DD

Count on the Doc to clear the confusion and clutter.

One thing Ive noticed time and again about threads on this subject is people never seem to mention that the number is stamped on the TOP of that pad, not the side. I too went nuts looking for that number one day until I removed the head and cleaned the deck surface, and lo and behold, there it was.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

6 - 1976 model year
225 - 225-cid
R - Regular gasoline
3 - March
17 - 17th day

So you have a 1976 225-cid slant six built on March 17, 1976.

Now, to have some more fun, find a similar machined pad under the #6 cylinder. What is stamped on that one?

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Bill
Vancouver, BC