Well, I told you I would probably be asking several questions as Aaron and I dig deeper into our pile of "stuff" to go back on his "Dartster".

His '74 Dart Sport originally had a 1bbl carb, but we're using a Super Six with Carter BBD from a parts car we found. We're having trouble identifying hoses and their proper locations. Can someone please post a few pictures showing their Carter Super Six where we can follow the hoses to the vacuum diverter, fuel vapor canister, PCV, breather, and air cleaner?

Now, let me show you a few things we need to identify.

Can't figure out where the little bracket bolts on. I think the spring attaches to it. I think the choke controller bolts to the top of the head, just off the edge of the valve cover, but there are two possible holes. One is just about opposite the carb and the other is closer to the firewall.
This might be the controller from the 1bbl Holley. Will it still work for the Carter? Which terminal does the choke wire attach to? One is labeled BAT.

Any help is appreciated, as always. We have several more things to locate, so.... I'll be back.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Left to right:

* 1bbl throttle return spring not used w/2bbl setup

* Choke heater control modulator, needs to be in series with the choke heater wire and mounted to the firewall (They tend to get too hot too quickly when bolted to the head, causing early choke let-off and saggy warmup behavior)

* 1bbl throttle return spring bracket not used w/2bbl setup.
It doesn't know or care who made the carburetor. The "BAT" terminal gets hooked up to a source of 12v that is active when the key is in the "On" position (or, better, when the engine is actually running. This is fairly easy to accomplish by putting a normally-closed relay in parallel with the oil pressure warning light circuit). The other terminal goes to the choke heater.

SlantSixDan identified the choke control... It does bolt the the hole in the head that is closer to the fire wall. Also the braided ground cable from the firewall bolts to same place on the engine so do not forget that.

FYI--- the 1-bbl throttle spring bracket bolted to the exhaust manifold on along with the 1-bbl bi-metal choke thermostat (uses same bolt to fasten both).

Additional information.... your rectangular electric choke control has a ceramic resistor hanging on the side of it. That style was only used on V8 engines. The correct slant 6 control does NOT use one with a ceramic resistor. The one with the resistor was used to stabilize choke operation on the V8 engines. When used on a slant 6 engine it will cause the choke to open sooner. Might be desirable depending on your climate???

More additional information.... That rectangular choke control switch can be replaced by the small round control off of a later slant 6 from a late Volaré / Aspen or other late '70's or 80's slant 6. The car you take the 2-bbl setup off of may have that smaller round control, look for it.

The round switch is a click-on or click-off type action. The older rectangular switch has bi-metal parts in it similar to the instrument cluster voltage regulator. The rectangular one also will disconnect power to the choke heater after the engine is way up to operating temperature and choke is already open. The newer round style switch keeps power applied to the choke heater even after the engine is fully hot. This does not hurt anything.
Either the rectangular or round choke heater switch will work fine.

Hope I did not overwhelm you with information.

[quote=Craig]your rectangular electric choke control has a ceramic resistor hanging on the side of it. That style was only used on V8 engines. The correct slant 6 control does NOT use one with a ceramic resistor. The one with the resistor was used to stabilize choke operation on the V8 engines. When used on a slant 6 engine it will cause the choke to open sooner. Might be desirable depending on your climate???[/quote]

Not quite right. The choke control with the resistor is a 2-stage item which is able to adapt to ambient temperature more closely than the 1-stage item (without resistor) used on the slant-6 cars. The choke heater controls don't know how many cylinders the engine has, just how much heat they're experiencing. The 2-stage control was just one of many little upgrades the more expensive V8-package cars got compared to the less expensive \6 cars.

Moving the choke control's location can GREATLY alter choke behavior, as previously mentioned. The cylinder head location frequently caused the choke to come off too fast; moving the control away from engine heat caused a slower come-off.