First thanks again to 70valiant for offering me a replacement triangle washer.

I finally found the one I lost when I was trying to get it on the stud below the exhaust manifold choke pocket.

To avoid going though that time wasting exercise again I came up with this trick and it worked perfectly.

I wire wheeled and degreased the washer first. Then I superglued a rubber band across the apex and down the two sides. I left off the glue right at the apex, but made sure the rubber band was tight to the washer. Then I put a drop of glue on the end of a length of .045 mig wire and slipped it under the rubber band at the apex of the triangle. When it dried you couldn't shake the washer off of the wire.

Using a mirror and flashlight and bending the wire as needed, I set the washer properly on the stud on the first try.

Next I put some modeling clay into a 1/2" 6 point 1/4" drive socket, pushed in the nut, and using the mirror and flashlight , extensions and the nut driver grip, I turned the nut right on to the stud.

With that done, one hard pull and the wire popped off with a bit of the rubber band attached. When I get her started the rest of the rubber band will burn away.

This whole thing took less than 5 minutes

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There is no problem that cannot be solved by the proper application of thermo nuclear weapons

Woo Hoo you found it and got it on where it belongs!
Have you started and dirven it yet?

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If all goes well, meaning I didn't screw anthing up, I hope to start her up tomorrow.

Are you running your car at Englishtown tomorrow?

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There is no problem that cannot be solved by the proper application of thermo nuclear weapons

Lineberg, that's a neat trick. Those "apex up" underside triangular washers can be a real trial, especially the ones sandwiched between the collector and the choke tower. Another trick I've used is to loop a piece of sewing thread or monofilament fishing line through the hole in the middle of the washer, then hold the two ends of the string with the washer at the bottom of the loop. The washer naturally falls to its correct "apex up" position.

I feed the washer-on-a-string down through the gap between manifold runners, then I put a long screwdriver shank through the washer hole and touch the end of the screwdriver to the stud. A quick flick of the wrist holding the string, and the washer's on the stud in its correct position. Then I just use a shallow 1/4" drive, 1/2" 6-point socket to run the nut on (I like your modelling clay idea—magnets don't work with the brass manifold stud nuts I use!)

You know there should be a law that design engineers should be made to service their finished product at least once. Then maybe we would have fewer challenges like those pain in the butt washers.

But then I guess we wouldn't have as much "fun" playing with these engines

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There is no problem that cannot be solved by the proper application of thermo nuclear weapons

I know headers rust out, but I didn't have to deal with that!

I did have to tighten with a wrench, instead of a socket, guessing the torque.

I've had them off and on 3 times without a problem.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."