Ok I'm attempting to just replace a few seals on my transmission, and failing miserably I've read the FSM and want to get some more detailed info since its a lot of "use special tool XX-XXXX" which I am fresh out of

Questions:

1--how to tell the early (pre 64) pan apart from the later model pan?
==>I had thought it was by the fact the later model pans have no drain plug. Well my new trans doens't have one, so I thought AHA! I'm set. Well, crawling under my current 62 also revealed a pan with no drain plug, which got me to wondering. I saw this since my current trans also has the inline filter, while the 225 trans I'm putting in had it removed. What I thought was clear...no longer seems quite so.

Also, the filter I took out (and put in) on my 225 is the 2 hole variety. So atleast I have the right dacron filter in, but need to verify I have the right pan. My 62 FSM clearly shows a plug in the torqueflite 6 trans, so I'm hoping that both transmissions have been serviced and I have the correct pan. I know its supposed to be a little deeper, but how much deeper (measurements would help here).

2--How to remove the gear shift cable?
==>looking inside at it, I can see there is a spring and a small maybe 3/8" bolt that may hold the end of the cable in. I tried pushing on a spring that is in a slot (which is what the manual says to do) but I couldn't get the cable to release. I didn't yank on it real hard, and wanted to make sure ID didn't futz it up in doing so. I want to know for sure since I have to replace the seal and unbolt this from my old trans. I think the problem for me on the 225 trans is I have no idea how to tell if the gear is in 1st gear since the cable is cut.

3--Parking lock cable removal?
==> I have a gasket to replace for the whole assembly, but when I removed the 5 bolts, and pulled the top half off, it was still partially connected by a long metal lever. I couldn't figure out how this came apart, and the FSM only mentions replacing the cable without removing the housing.

Ah, that's all I've fuddled into thus far. I have to replace the speedo cable too, but that already is completely gone on my 225 trans and just has a plug in it. Hopefully that's not an issue.

OH WAIT! Almost forgot, 2 more questions.

Replacing the front seal and rear seal.

Front seal, can I just pry out carefully with a screwdriver? The seal I have in there and the one I have to replace it with look different. I don't think the front seal is really worn, it looks like its in good shape.

The rear seal, I can't figure out how to hold the shaft still to unbolt that huge 1 1/8 locknut. My vise is already packed...other suggestions?

Sorry for all the questions, I *thought* I had it made until I actually tried to do it

MJ

Are these seals leaking? The rear seal especially you shouldn't touch unless it's leaking, IMHO.

Front seal you can pry out w/ small flat blade screwdriver. Pound it in at the top edge of the seal where it meets the case and pry it out. Put a little permatex on the metal lip of the new seal and be very careful when driving it in. Sometimes filing edges of new seal a little can aid installation.

Factory pans are all interchangeable on 904s, regardless of year. Only the filters are different for 65-up. Drain plug not necessary since you can just drop one corner of the pan. Be prepared for a mess unless you are careful.

Gear shift cable assy can just be pulled back from the case after removing 1/4" bolt holding the retaining ring in. I have never replaced the O-ring but just smeared some silicone RTV on the o-ring and nearby. If you need to remove the cable, you need to have the pan off to get at the cable end inside to release it. Some kind of clip holding it to shift lever inside, but I can't remember what it looks like.

Best of luck,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Nope. I used to think this, too, but it's wrong. When they changed to the in-pan Dacron filter for '64 (not for '65), they put a circular depression in the pan to provide sufficient clearance between the pan and the Dacron filter, which is thicker than the '63 and earlier pickup screen. This is why my '62 has "dropout" problems when cold (Dacron filter w/'62 pan); I really need to fix it 'cause it's not good to starve the pump for fluid.

Nice new pans with unwarped rails can be had from the dealer ("1999 Dakota with 42RE transmission"), and they even include a spiffy magnet to catch metallic shavings. Whether you go that route or install a used '64-up pan, save yourself a bunch of current and future hassle; stop by the Chrysler dealer and get the really nice double-seal, reusable rigid pan gasket P/N 4295875AC and use it instead of the floppy gaskets that come with the filters.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nope neither shows any sign of leaking. The front looks great, and the rear is dry. I have a little play (side to side vs. front to back (runout?)) but nothing severe. It was just recommended I do so while the trans is out. When I pulled the trans, the inside housing was completely dry, with a little dirt on the bottom end. Looked pretty good.
Ok that confirms what I saw when I was in there with the pan off. The pan is totally dry at this point, so I can remove it at my leisure. Also, is there any specific type of ATF I should buy to replace it all? I'll also refill the converter at the same time.

Thanks!

Menko

So when I'm looking at the inside of the pan, there is a depression where the dacron filter goes. Hmm, my drainplugless pan seemed totally smooth when I wiped it out last night. Might just have to go get a new pan then. I'll see if I can scare one up tomorrow.

I'll try and get a pick of it tonight. BTW can you see the depression from the bottom side of the pan? Cause I know for sure mine is smooth (not accounting for the rust!)

Thanks!

MJ

Yep, the depression is visible on the bottom surface of the pan. I'm not completely certain on this—TFPattie probably has the answer—but it's possible some of the post-'64-depth pans were just deeper from edge to edge and corner to corner, rather than having the round depression.

You'll get lots of different opinions on fluid to use. Original spec was Type-A, Suffix-A. Very old spec, long since supplanted by original Dexron, which contained whale oil and so was replaced by Dexron-II, then—as GM's transmission designs and available fluid chemistry evolved—Dexron IID, IIE, III, IIIe, IV and V. And just a few weeks ago, GM announced Dexron-VI as new factory fill for their current transmissions.

Most other automakers just went along with GM's fluid specs through the years. Ford did their own thing with Type-D and then Type-F in the '60s and early '70s, but went to Dexron across the line by 1981. Type-F is an old and outdated fluid. Its thermal resistance, viscosity stability, lubricity and anti-varnish characteristics are pathetic compared to more modern fluid formulations. But Torqueflites are tough, and some people, notably drag racers, use it in Chrysler transmissions 'cause they like BANG!(Screech!) shifts. You can probably tell my own opinion on this in a street-driven car.

Any reputable name-brand Dexron trans fluid will work fine in your '62 trans. ATF+3 is more expensive and has better lubricity, viscosity stability and heat resistance. ATF+4 is even more expensive and is even better in those performance criteria. Take yer choice!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The 65 trans I just tore into has the 8 inch circle depression in the pan
- it is stamped into the pan and is visible from outside as well as inside.

ok i'll look for the circle and see what I can do. I found some with vaguely rectangular buldges as well. It'll work out

thanks guys

PS--anyone know the specs on how much fluid goes in to the trans anc converter? My manual is with the car, and I need to buy some ATF +3

Thanks!

Menko