i have a holley "1945" on my 1974 Scamp. the Scamp has a "225 engine with automatic transmission. from the time i bought the car the idle screw has had to be set at 4 1/2 turns out. i went and bought a re-man. (junk) and it had to be set at the same way(??), i took it back and put the original back on, after i rebuilt it, it ran better but again set at 4 1/2 turns out. i then replaced the timing chain which took care of my low torque problem and is set at 950 rpm's not 1400 rpm's for it to idle. the thing is the car is tempermental at starting, i need to open the throttle about 1/4 -1/2 or it will shoot up a cloud of gas and not start. personally, i believe it's an adjustment i need to make in the carb.(thinking again...) because it idles a little rough but not real bad, has assume response all the way up, much more torque all the way up. the car will now pass with authority, heard a downshift and a GRRRRR out of her tonight! she was pulling pretty nice. the car simply seems to run way too nice for it to be more than an adjustment (imho). Gearhead had sent me some info. on the idea that the idle blades may need adjustment and be causing the idle circuit to be too lean. this is where i'm at a loss. i need your knowledge once again! thanks!

Does he mean throttle blades? Check them first, and if they need adjustment try this. Take the carb off, loosen the screws to the throttle blades until you can wiggle them a little. Now back the idle stop screw out till the blades close ALL the way +1 turn more. Holding the base of the carb up to the light, wiggle the blades until the least possible amount of light is visible.

I recently saw an experienced carb builder install blades upside-down by mistake (an old guy and I guess his eyes are going). Not sure if this is the same for a 1945, but on a carter bbd, the blades have an angle cut to one edge, and if installed backwards won't close properly. You should be able to see the hole for you idle mixure screw and not very much else when the throttle blades are closed all the way. if you can see some of the accelerator slot, you'd better figure out why.

I really wish this was always true. It is surely possible that you have simply overlooked something, but be warned. Now that you have it tuned up, you don't want to spank it too hard.

Both my truck and car run very strong in passing gear, but are very worn out. ( I love that Grrrrr! ) The signs of overly opened idle mixture screws, problems that don't change with different carbs, weak compression and low oil pressure are further signs of excessive wear. (This is assuming you've done a proper tune up and cleaned up any vacuum leaks, plus a new carb in my case )

My Aspen just ran an 18.55 and 18.66 at clay city, but started knocking on the long drive home. I knew it was time for a motor before leaving for the race, but she ran/passed strong (even at 70+mph) dispite the little bit of noise climbing hills. I'm sure with some care and heavy oil the old slant would run a few thousand more miles, but it's racing days are done.

Cars motor is already in the air (if I can just get the freaking exhaust out of the way) Truck will be next, but I'm sure if I wanted, I could put up with that high mileage, hard starting, oil burning ol slant for quite a while yet.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Slant6Ram, this car has about 58k miles on it now and the compression was all cylinders right about 120 lbs. when i first got it. after i took it on a couple of trips at 85-90mph. i noticed a big difference in power (must have had a lot of carbon). it doesn't smoke or seem to burn any oil. i replaced most of the vacuum lines except the ones to the interior of the car. also checked the engine compartment with carb. cleaner and propane and found nothing. so, i will check out the throttle blades to make sure they are right. i have all the emissions junk on it and my guess most of it is not working. problem is i have to go thru emissons, the good part is i hear they don't open the hood, they just want you to pass their limits. so, i might be able to do away with it. thanks!

I should really do a little more back reading before I post thoughts about your engine being worn out. I can't remember the details of everyone's cars. Sorry if I came across wrong.

The only way I would think your trottle blades should need adjusted is if it was rebuilt and not reassembled correctly. I guess anything is possible on a 30 year old car.

Hope you can get the final bugs out, and enjoy the Grrr!

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Slant6Ram, no apologies necessary! i don't expect you to memorize my car or it's problems. i was wondering if i should check again for a vacuum leak somewhere. as loose as the timing chain was and as weak as my low end was, wouldn't that hurt my chances of finding the leak to begin with? i just went outside and took another look at the shaft that holds the throttle blades and looks bent and there is some play in the bushing. also, i had said that it sounds like detonation at idle, but i only hear it at idle (maybe too lean) and when i moved the distributor it stayed the same never went away. also, it's not there when i floor it. i'm wondering if that could be the belts(another issue). i had a problem pressing the harmonic balancer and it is about 1/8"(or so) further out than before. what i would like to do is put a 2bbl. carb. on with a 2bbl. manifold and just get this carb. out of there all together. thanks.