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 Post subject: Synthetic Oil
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 6:07 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2005 10:44 am
Posts: 16
Car Model:
what's the scoop on using synthetic oil in slant 6???
advantage? disadvantage? bad idea?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 6:26 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Same story as using synth oil in any other engine.

Chief advantages: Much lower "pour point" temperature for easier starting and faster lubrication on cold starts. Less tendency to form sludge. Better lubricity.

Chief disadvantage: Higher cost. You can spend anywhere from $3 to $15 on a quart of synth oil. Thread Here.

Note that the present "regular" Mobil-1 is not nearly as good a choice for our cars as the Mobil-1 Extended Performance. That's because the plain Mobil-1 has recently been reformulated without certain Extreme Pressure additives that work to combat sliding friction (e.g. lifters against camshaft, fuel pump lever against eccentric, etc.). Since all modern engines use roller lifters and electric fuel pumps, this particular kind of friction generally isn't found any more. But, that kind of protection is very necessary in older engines. The regular Mobil-1 won't burn up an older engine, it's just that the Extended Performance stuff will work better.

RedLine is certainly terrific oil. Perhaps if I had a professional race car with an engine worth five figures, I'd use it. Other than that...not cost-effective. (I have happily used RedLine's transmission and gear lubes).

I avoid Amsoil products just as religiously as too many of their dealers push it. No API approval except in their inferior 2nd-line engine oil. Also poor results when tested independently. Also twice the price of Mobil-1, with poorer availability.

In the end, remember that even the cheapest name-brand conventional oil you can buy today is hugely superior to what was available when our engines were new.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 9:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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Mobil 1 synthetic extended performance is $24/5quart jug at walmart, thats $4.80 a quart. Says 15,000 mile change intervals. Don't know about leaving it in that long, I'll probably run mine 4000 or 5000 miles, maybe longer.

Strictly going by the rating if you compare price/mileage ratio its not that bad. Not sure what the offical, scientific judgment is on terms of how much longer synthetic lasts though vs dino.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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I use synt 10-30. great! I've used synt 5-40 and regular 15-40. I have to say that the 10-30 i'm using now seems to make my mill very happy. As a matter of fact I put 1000 miles on her this weekend cruising @100 and I had a very low .25 liters oils consumption (normal for that high revving constant speed according to my calculations). I change my oil every 3 months no matter what mileage I put on it (of course, If I put 4k miles on her before the 3 months I change it anyway) and I ALWAYS use a molykote AF4 anti friction additive. Call me stupid, I prefer to have my engine safe and sound rather than squeeze it for saving 2 dollars now and have a major headache later. Same goes to carburetion... I tune it a li'l bit on the rich side especially being the wotter I am.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:04 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
Car Model:
I use Rotella T diesel oil in my slants. Managed to find it in 10W-40. Expensive but I've heard that it is grest on loder engines that still have all of the sliding, shearing, and rubbing parts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 9:21 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Rotella is much cheaper than any other syn oil though. I've seen it for about $10/gallon at Advance. I almost used it on my VW as its approved, but went with the Mobil 1 0-40 which was specifically stated as approved. Since sludging was a problem in that engine, we've always run syn in it from the day we got it.

MJ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:13 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
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Location: Argentina
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sludging starts the minute you try to squeeze 10 miles more from that oil change....

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Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 9:35 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Well on the 1.8T there was actually a recall on it from VW. They mandated the use of syn oil and a larger filter than had been supplied. Dealers had just been using regular oil and so many of the 1.8Ts were dying prematurely even when changed on the regular intervals. I think I recall reading it had something to the do with the oil pan becoming too shallow in spots when it was modified to accomodate a suspension change VW made. But yeah, sticking with the time/distance requirements is a no-brainer (you got none if ya don't do it?!)

MJ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 6:42 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:33 pm
Posts: 745
Location: Rolla, MO
Car Model:
As far as Rotella goes, there are alot of guys that are switching away from it for the heavy equipment. They claim a lot of people are losing wrist pins around 100k miles. (not sure how valid that claim is, just word of mouth) We still sell tons of it at work, but we've also been selling quite a bit of Delo 400, by Chevron.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 8:23 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
I use Napa fleet oil. Its diesel oil, 15W-40. Made by Valvoline.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2005 10:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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I was going to post along the lines of "I used to use Rotella, too, before I started reading www.bobistheoilguy.com ", but didn't get around to it.

DS (oops)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2005 4:00 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 3:14 pm
Posts: 30
Car Model:
I just went ahead and bought some Royal Purple 10w-30 and im going to see if all the hype and articles are worth the extra money and maybe some free extra horsepower : )


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2005 4:17 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2005 5:31 am
Posts: 969
Location: Norway
Car Model:
Don´t know about engines, but tranny, and rearends move so much easyer with synthetic oil.

Now, I have to hold the brakes when at a redlight...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 6:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:06 pm
Posts: 726
Location: Asheville, NC
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for what it's worth, grassroots motorsports ran an article a few years back running back to back dyno tests after changing one oil reservior at a time (engine, then trans, then rear diff) and refilling them with redline (i think.) they actually claimed a few horsepower overall. i believe most gains were from the gearboxes.
i have personally used redline to improve shifting 5-speeds in the past. no experience with the amsoil (amway?) i think most manufacturers are pushing the synthetic blends these days.

-james

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 11:07 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
for what it's worth, grassroots motorsports ran an article a few years back running back to back dyno tests after changing one oil reservior at a time (engine, then trans, then rear diff) and refilling them with redline (i think.) they actually claimed a few horsepower overall. i believe most gains were from the gearboxes.
i have personally used redline to improve shifting 5-speeds in the past. no experience with the amsoil (amway?) i think most manufacturers are pushing the synthetic blends these days.

-james
Some of those tests don't control the variables very accurately...............

Was it the oil change or the fact that the parts have warmed up between tests (warmer parts, thinner oil, less drag.................)

Unless you take a 30 minute drive, test, change, same drive,test,change,same drive,test......... conditions aren't exactly the same......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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