I'm in work on a modified slant water pump housing. The idea is to build up a slant housing to accept a B/RB water pump. In this way, one could use an aftermarket electric pump (for the B/RB) on a slant.

Would any of you care to offer some input? If this works out, I may do a write-up for the SSRN, and I suppose it's possible I could find an aluminum caster to do a limited run of say, 50 pieces.

are you just trying to run the pump on the street or to race ,i use a electric water pump drive from jegs

As a racer my engine does fine with a stock pump with an electric motor driving a plastic fan and the pump . I can control the water temp and bring the car up to the temp i want. My temps at the starting line is 130 and after the run it is 160 . This suits my engine but it is a hard blocked race engine. A street engine could not run this setup. Doint Know. Street /strip might be defferent . Any technogly for a Slant would be helpful. Thanks Ron Parker






Hey Has That Thing Got A Bagel Bamboozler In It

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Mikey.....I'm unfamiliar with the Jeg's setup. Is it similar to the Mr. Gasket or Moroso universal belt drive? If so, that's what I was thinking of getting away from, and being able to use the better pumps with the electric motor built right into the nose of the pump housing.

Roger

I'd be interested if this setup can be used for street applications. I've been wandering if I can get one of those electric pumps to work on my car.... somehow she ain't like the slow traffic because of the low-flow-at-low-engine-revs thing. I guess that having increased the engine's power didn't help neither, cuz at a traffic jam I can't really keep the engine revving.... I have to feather the gas all the time....

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I would be more interested in a reverse flow system. It would be more useful for turbocharged applications.

Thanks,

Greg

They sell remote mounted electric water pumps with more flow than the block mounted style. This gives more room for electric fan installations and alternate plumbing arrangments. Also, a smaller style alternator could then be used with easier bracket fabrication.

Water flow volume is critical in street driven applications because the water can boil around the exhaust valve almost instantly and high engine loads. These steam pockets can cause all sorts of localized problems in the combustion chamber and valve seat temperatures.

Electric water pumps have a constant flow, engine driven water pumps increase flow and pressure differential across the cylinder head interface with increased engine rpm.

For drag racing, the low volume is probably not an issue, especially with the slants heavy duty head deck...for higher rpm street apps or boost/nitrous apps, or people who road race or auto cross, I am not sure that an electric water pump (except perhaps the high dollar hi flow rated stuff) will provide long term reliable thermal cooling in the most important areas around the exhaust valve.

I have been studying cooling systems and thermodynamics for a long time looking to convert all my cars at some point to computer driven and regulated electric water flow.

This web site has really good basic info on cooling system theory and thermodynamics of cooling engines.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_t ... Tips_6.htm

They also sell one of the highest flowing (and costing) electric pumps on the market.

Oops...late...got to go to the Panthers game


Gearhead

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64 GTO...10.80's@122 on street radials
Destroked 455, Qjet, stock ign, 2400 stall

64 Valiant
Old 225, 4spd, 2.92-8.75, 2bbl, headers
dual 2.25"

What ever happened with this project?