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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 12:21 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
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Quote:
Personally, I think the 2.2 8 valve head is about the same as the /6 head - I've ported both and I think they're equally poor, especially in stock form. A 2.5 is 153 cubes (38.25 cubes per cylinder) and a 225 is 37.5 cubes per cylinder, so that is close enough to be the same - at least to me. So, if you built a tubular ram intake for the /6 that was like the 2 piece Shelby intake, you could use a doubled core T2 intercooler for a short, direct feed right into the TB (the TB opening would face forward right into the intercooler outlet. You could use the standard Bosch injectors that the 2.2/2.5 guys use (+20's or +40's) and just use the Megasquirt computer setup to run it all. Overall, it's really pretty simple.
Exactly what got me started on the topic. Even more is the fact that a 198 and 2.2 share the same stroke, as does a 225 and 2.5, and with the right overbore they would all have the same bore as well.

This is part of the reason that I don't think 300 hp is unreasonable. If a 2.5 at 15 psi can make an easy 200 hp, than a 225 with 1.5 more cylinders should be able to make 300. Now, it may not be easy to make it as drivable or docile as the 2.5, but that can be worked on.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 12:45 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2005 5:31 am
Posts: 969
Location: Norway
Car Model:
Here you go...

http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html

What makes the 2.2/2.5 so driveable and docile? :?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 4:49 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:35 pm
Posts: 665
Location: Spokane, Washington
Car Model:
Image

This pic shows the channels. The website reference by Rust collector doesn't talk about the proccess to do this, but at least the picture shows what I am talking about.

Thanks for finding it Rust collector.

There isn't anything special about the 2.2/2.5. I was meaning that with EFI and factory tuning it makes the car run very well both in and out of boost. With a carb and turbo on a slant 6, it will require a bit of work to make it docile and driveable when out of boost. Not saying it can't be done, just that it wont be a drop on. Most cars run well one place or the other, the well tuned motors run well in both.

_________________
'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 5:08 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2005 5:31 am
Posts: 969
Location: Norway
Car Model:
Oh, ok :wink:

I can´t find the good pics now :oops:

Just remember to get boost from above the venturis, to seal the throttleshafts...

If the carb isn´t too worn, I don´t think you need it, for normal boost levels :?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:38 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:47 am
Posts: 90
Location: ohio
Car Model:
that is a really cool link to the modification of the holley for boost.

2 thumbs up :lol:


unfortunately not an option for my turbo dakota though. after talking to the guy in Wisconsin pushing raw fuel out the throttle shafts at 18 psi and a couple calls to weber tech lines. I was told i can run 10psi all day long and anythig over 15 and i internally damage the webers. I handicapped my fuel system. to eliminate the temptaion of trying more.

My aeromotive pump only puts out 18 to 20 psi. with a static pressure of 4 psi for the webers and 15 psi of boost =maximum needed pressure of 19 psi. I dont have enough fuel to go over 14 or 15 psi. a designed limitation to stop me from blowing it to shreds.

I went looking to the unconventional. decided to go with a higher base compression from standard turbo motors of 8.1 or 8.2 I am running 9.5 . This produces other problems to contend with 1) heat and lots of it. 2) min octane requirements. I have done alot of leg work in this area and I am installiong a snow performance boost cooler. Going to spray a 50/50 mix of methanol and water into the charge air. lowers combustion temps dramatically. slows flame propagation across face of piston to give a more thorough burn and increases octane of fuel allowing more aggressive timing yeah and more boost which i can not use. I have been told it can raise 93 pump gas into the area of 120. online computers say at 9.5 base compression and 15 psi i need to run 116 octane fuel. If everything works as i have been told i should be able to get away with pump gas!!!!!! yip yip yipppeeee

her is a link http://www.snowperformance.net/products.asp?id=1

i am loking at the stage 2 set up. It takes a diect boost feed multiple trigger/engagement points. adjustable pressure and like nos multiple jet sizing to finish your tunability.

hoping this is the cure to my problems of higher base compressionand not bieng able to affford cam 2 in a daily driver.

_________________
dont compromise customize

boost IS a substitute for cubic inches


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 11:46 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:47 am
Posts: 90
Location: ohio
Car Model:
ps.
after i limited myself i ran across the guy from rotaryshack that says he can alter a weber to handle 25 psi. :cry:

oh well if i cant get enough power at 15 psi then i can always buy another pump later on but I still think its going to be a blast to drive the way I have it set up now.


i am dak153ci [dakota 153 cubic inches] on aol instant messenger if you guys use that service. im me sometime.

i also use chris at T/U. hes a good guy. that bieng said have you ever considered shelling out the cash for one of the ballistic concepts gt series dual ballbearing turbos he sells????? hes got me hooked on the idea and i think the dart is where i am going to try one. just a thought.

_________________
dont compromise customize

boost IS a substitute for cubic inches


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