Dan & dartg63:

I didn't hear any leaks., but I yield to your experience.

--Walt Jackson

My Feb issue of Car Craft arrived yesterday, and on page 100, there is an article about this guy finding one in a junkyard.

Yep, I guess I'll just have to keep scouring Pick N Pull here till I get lucky.

Thanks guys!

Marc
www.marcmedina.com

You may have success with Hemmings Motor News.

So what is your idea.... are you thinking about sealing the top deck area?
Do you need a block with main caps?
DD

Hi Doug,

My plan(s) was to either fill the water jacket with sand (flushable when done) and then pour aluminum in from the to to fill the deck, or with the block inverted, pour in aluminum from the bottom of the block to "back fill the deck. I don't know if the second approach is even possible. I figured once I had a block I could measure to see what is where and what the potential was for something like that. I also want to have my uncle look at it. He restores OLD hand built Italian race cars and is used to having to create parts from scratch that simply don't exist any more. He has his own 24" lathe, full size Bridgeport, etc, etc, and doing work like this is "normal" to him.

Yes, I would like one with main caps as the idea is to end up with a block I can use.

If all this doesn't work, I'll probably end up going the other way and building a turbo intercooled cast block engine running 20 psi, efi similar to the Shelby Dodge T2 setup and a 5 speed.

If you have time, I'd like to talk to you about this. You can e-mail me your number and I'll call (I'm long distance from you - up in Santa Rosa) or you can call me on my cell up till 10 pm - 707-478-5669.

Thanks,
Marc

It might be worth a shot. There are, however, issues to be addressed
The new aluminum will likely not meld with the block metal, if that is what you are trying to do. Even in new castings, "cold shuts" are not uncommon where the molten metal comes into an area from two directions, with one cooling more quickly than the other.
In addition, the changes in the metal as it solidifies may induce stresses in the new and the old metal, distorting the block.
In effect, you will be casting a part in place. The holes for the cylinders will shrink, inducing stresses, and the outer areas will pull away from the block.
Consider machining or grinding some areas into the block to give the new casting something to hang onto, even after it shrinks in cooling.
Also, on the head mating surface, you might make allowance for the new casting to be "proud" (stick out a bit), again, to allow for shrinkage and to make sure that you have a good solid mating surface when you machine the block.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO