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 Post subject: engine rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 11:16 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 10:12 am
Posts: 194
Location: Fountain valley
Car Model:
Well hey there, I found a machine shop for my head and block and internals. Awesome work and good prices. Now here is my question for you guys.

How do I yank this damn block out of my car?

I have a cherry picker, but how much chain do I need and what is the best way to connect it to the block?

Also when I get the block back, when do I paint it? Do I paint it with the head bolted onto it?

New radiator is needed, aftermarket with more flow or OEM replacement?
Should I use an electric fan to save some ponies, or just invest in that when I build a true screamer?

Water pump needs to be replaced, aftermarket or OEM replacement?

Also my valves are stock, but I feel I am not getting everything I can out of my dual Weber setup. I cant afford to go with new valves again, but what about a new cam? Where to get new cam, what company? Also will I need to get new lifters and pushrods?

I can reuse my rocker arms provided they arent destroyed, will their geometry work with an upgraded cam?

I have a manual, but it's description of removing the engine is VERY basic.

Some pointers and words from experienced engine pullers would be helpful.

thanks
caesar

ps.
what about new oil pump and fuel pump? I want to stick with mechanical.


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 Post subject: Pick it here...
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9760
Location: Salem, OR
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Image


If you see where the bolts and chain are hooked, it will make things easier to pull and install...

Good luck,

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 12:13 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 8:38 pm
Posts: 113
Location: Fayetteville, AR
Car Model:
wait a minute...are those in the valse cover holes?

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 Post subject: Re: engine rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 12:22 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13031
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Paint the block whenever and however you want. When you rebuild amotor you should always install new oil, water, and fuel pumps, as well as hoses. Go for the cheapest radiator. Scrounge the boneyard and see if you can't find one that can be used. If you can't, try using the radiator from an F or M body car. A little bit bigger and I think only need two holes drilled to work in an early A-body. As far as fans go I would look for a clutch fan first, but electric fans are okay too. You can find plenty of clutch fans at boneyards. If I remember right you have an early A-body so you probably won't be able to get a clutch fan to fit, so go with the skinniest electric you can find.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 12:29 pm 
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Posts: 9760
Location: Salem, OR
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wait a minute...are those in the valse cover holes

Nope, those are in the Acc. bolt holes (on late cars that's where your vacuum amplifier and choke timer bolts to...)

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 5:48 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 8:38 pm
Posts: 113
Location: Fayetteville, AR
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Ah, okay, that makes sense. I was a bit confused there for a moment.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 8:07 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 10:12 am
Posts: 194
Location: Fountain valley
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Okay, as far as connecting the chains to the engine, my head is already OFF and rebuilt. So i just have the block.

Do I connect the chains to the holes where the head bolted to the block? use 2 bolts or 4?

New water pump, OEM replacement will do, right?

New oil pump, OEM replacement or should I go with something that pushes a tad more psi?

Still have the old fan, if upgrading try a clutch fan FIRST, then an ELECTRIC?

Radiator, if it checks out (taking to a shop this next week to have it tested) re-use it right? if not, F or M body car?

Oh yea oil pan has to be replaced (mine is kind of beat up and stripped pretty bad) so that has to be replaced as well. IF i get the replacement, should I take that in to the machinist to have him surface the mating side to ensure it is smooth and straight?

Caesar


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 8:56 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13031
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Okay, as far as connecting the chains to the engine, my head is already OFF and rebuilt. So i just have the block.

Do I connect the chains to the holes where the head bolted to the block? use 2 bolts or 4?
When the head is off the blocke I use the stud/bolt hole for the aternator bracket and the bolt hole for the engine to transmission brace next to the starter motor.
Quote:
New water pump, OEM replacement will do, right?

New oil pump, OEM replacement or should I go with something that pushes a tad more psi?
Yep. OEM should be fine. High volume oil pumps are really overkill on anything short of a turbo motor.
Quote:
Still have the old fan, if upgrading try a clutch fan FIRST, then an ELECTRIC?
Yes. You probably won't be able to fit a clutch fan in your A-body due to the extremely tight clearance between your radiator and engine. If you can do it, great, if not try and find a "pusher" fan that mounts in front of the radiator and behind your grille.
Quote:
Radiator, if it checks out (taking to a shop this next week to have it tested) re-use it right? if not, F or M body car?


Yep.
Quote:
Oh yea oil pan has to be replaced (mine is kind of beat up and stripped pretty bad) so that has to be replaced as well. IF i get the replacement, should I take that in to the machinist to have him surface the mating side to ensure it is smooth and straight?
There is no reason why your current pan couldn't be hot tanked, pounded back into shape, and have any cracks welded. Then you can re-paint it and all is well. You can measure the mating side with a steel ruler or other metal straight edge.

I've said it before, but if I was in your situation I would put my money into a good camshaft and some valve work (three angle valve job) and leave mostly stock compnents in the bottom end.


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 Post subject: planning it out
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:36 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 10:12 am
Posts: 194
Location: Fountain valley
Car Model:
Well thanks for the advice on the engine rebuild.

-Stock replacement oil pump
-Stock replacement water pump
-Reuse the fan
-Reuse radiator, repair if needed and possible, if not stock replacement
-New cam and solid lifters (what brand? who makes good slightly hotter than stock cams?)

As far as cam shaft my current setup is this:
dual 32/36DCNV Webers, Dutra dual exhaust into a 2" exhaust single tip, stock head (valve size and spring "weight"), same size pistons, rods and stroke, stock transmission and torque converter.

I am not looking for my engine to scream (yet), but I am looking for a tad more gusto.

Cam choices?

Caesar


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