I might be interested, but let me think about it. I am in the middle of cutting and re-welding one of my extra one barrel intakes into a two barrel, and I have a line on a possible aluminum four barrel intake.

I will have to get back to you.

I really appreciate all the offers I am getting. Thanks guys! Slanters are the best!

Here comes Santa Clause Here comes Santa Clause right down Slant Six Lane. PM me Reed i will make you an offer you cannot refuse on a Supersix intake Ron Parker










Using A Arziona Company To Bamboozle Bagel

You're right! I CAN'T refuse! And you didn't even have to leave a oily cylinder head in my bed!

Rob, I could use one of those iron 2 barrel manifolds too.

There are a bunch of cast iron two barrels on e-bay right now, and you can always modify your one barrel intake. I am in the middle of modifying an old one barrel intake and it is actually easier than you w=think (provided you have som ebasic power tools).

I don't have a one barrel. Mine is a welded aluminum 2 barrel that is serverly pitted and leaks at the head. But thanks for the links.

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The Old Goat '83 D150 225-2

AKA Ice Titan

Well, I am cursed. It turns out that the aluminum intake Ron Parker kindly made me such a good deal on is cracked in exactly the same spot as my old aluminum intake manifold. On top of that, my sister's Oldsmobile is starting to act up again and my Mom's Buick is also acting up. Add to that that my brother is dropping his van off supposedly this week for me to rebuild the transmission. It never rains but it pours. Needless to say my van hasn't had any work done on it (I still have to make living on top of the car work) and it doesn't look like it will happen anytime soon.

Reed, I'd just go ahead and get someone to TIG it up that crack for you for a few reasons.

1. All factory manifolds out there have many years and thousands of heat cycles on them. If they haven't already cracked, they are already developing them even though you can't see them.
2. I think steel and cast iron are materials more suceptable to cracking beside the weld due to high heats required (modifies/embrittles the grain structure). Alum TIG is a "cool" operation.
3. Thermal cycling fatigue perhaps can be reversed somewhat by a prolonged heat soak. After welding, I'd bake it in the oven at 500'F for 5 hrs on an old cookie sheet. (It goes without saying that this is done when 'nobody' will walk into the kitchen and be surprised.)

Bolt it together and enjoy. It may not last another 20-25 years but it will probably last for another 10.

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Cheers!
Al T

I think the universe is trying to tell you to quit futzing around with the aluminum intakes and get an iron one.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan- I think you are right. Until I order some of that aluma-weld stuff I posted a link too, I am just going to do the finishing touches on my home-made cast-iron intake and run that. I have a line on an Offy, but it will be awhile before I have a motor built to handle that much carb.

It must be a design flaw in the aluminium intakes since the crack is in exactly the same spot on both. it is right behind the little EGR tube bump on the floor of the intake (or directly inboard of the EGR port if you are looking from above). If I was going to run headers I could just slap some JB weld on it and be fine. But with a stock exhaust manifold I am afraid anything short of welding would get fried off.

Two steps forward, one step back...

I've commented in the past on my thoughts on that aluminum intake's construction. Really lightweight casting; if you get a good one it'll work, but can't be expected to have the same durability as the iron or heftier aluminum castings.

I have seen several cracked aluminum intakes, but only ever one iron intake cracked on the floor. Unfortunately it was an export non-EGR 2bbl I had been planning to run!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.