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 Post subject: I blew my '63 170
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:43 am 
After getting my '63 Valiant convertible's 170 engine running good after sitting for 3 years, the oil light started flickering. I think I stirred too much gunk up while getting the valves unstuck and trying to get the motor back in good running shape. I tried to keep a tire appointment Friday and when I got her on the highway she seized up and died.

The engine would not turn so I removed the oil pan and loosened the main caps and sprayed everything with WD-40 and finally got the motor to spin so I could get the other 2 torque converter bolts out. What a bear. I'm just a "shade tree" mechanic, but the engine is now on the engine stand ready to evaluate. The oil pick up screen was almost totally blocked with goo.

Question - What now? Rebuild the 170 or get a 225 and rebuild it. The last slant six was produced 15 years ago. The V8 thing sounds tempting, but I'm not a fabricator and really don't want a race car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 7:48 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2003 5:53 am
Posts: 750
Location: Crestline, CA
Car Model:
You can probably find a really nice junkyard slant for cheap. Rebuild it if you want, but, depending on what you want for your convertable, a simple drop in motor would at least get you going again quickly. Most of them are 225s.

Good luck!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 5:15 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:47 am
Posts: 90
Location: ohio
Car Model:
pat where are you?

I bought a complete running prospector truck that i parted out. I have a good running 225 cheap if you are close to ohio. i am in zip 44902.

if you are not close i understand shipping is a beast just trying to hep you out. good luck.

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dont compromise customize

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:24 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:47 pm
Posts: 445
Location: Runge, TX
Car Model: 1974 W100; 72 Dart
check forward air for shipping costs. its the cheapest way to ship big items that i have found.

http://www.forwardair.com/

good luck.

sb


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 5:37 am 
I found no rod bearing left on #2. Melted away. Crank and rod may be beyond repair. The timing chain was very slack. The oil pickup was totally clogged. The rear valve cover bolt hole went into the water jacket. I don't know that this caused a problem or why that happened. Maybe it was a factory mistake or maybe the head is cracked. The rear exhaust manifold bolt is broken off. Other than that ..... the engine didn't look too bad. I've decided to abandon it in favor of a later model 225.

Question - Was there any change to the transmission to engine connection that would prevent a later model engine to bolt in place without problems? My current trans is the original 1963 A904 pushbutton automatic. Thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 7:37 am 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
your converter nose might be smaller than post '67 (IIRC) but I hink that can be fixed with some sort of a pilot bushing (sort of manual transmision one) thaqt is to say that the crankshaft hubcap might be larger.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 10:51 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 9:42 pm
Posts: 358
Location: San Diego, California
Car Model:
As mentioned the torque converter hub on the 63 is smaller than the crank. An adapter needs to be used to take up the space. The adapter
is sold by Pat Blais's shop on ebay. I had a high school kid turn me two
on the lathe in the adult education shop.

Other issues -
You may need to use the oil pan and pick up from your old motor.
And also may need the engine brackets and mounts from the old
motor to fit the new one in your chassis.
In a 60-62 Early A body chassis when replacing the 170 with a 225
the air cleaner and heater box clearance also can be an issue.


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