Hey Feather,

I'm afraid I don't have a PN for the ATI, but you can call them and they've done Slant units before. Unless you are building something earth shattering (higher than 6000rpm or 300HP), it should not be necessary. A few of the really fast guys (350+HP) have used them though.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

There are 3 types of dampers, friction, elstomeric and fluid.
The ATI is elastomeric. So is OEM.
The Fisher damper is friction type. They require maintence yearly. I had one on my last Duster. Did someone find a link to Fisher? They were bought by Russell hose several years ago, then Russell was bought by Eldebrock. I don't see a damper line on the Eldebrock site, maybe the Fisher was sold off or just dropped.

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Slant Cecil

Looks as if Romac in Australia makes a few different HP dampers for the slant, under P/N 0224.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Has anyone burned up a front seal with the rebuilt damper with added microsleave? I test fit mine and it seems a bit tight to be. I guess I'll lube it up good and move foward.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

It will be fine.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Sorry to bring back a long lost thread, but I want to raise another question...

I have a 78 Volare, factory Super Six car... Had to replace the engine and I sourced out a 1970 225 from a van so I assume its a forged crank...

My dilemma is this: my 78 engine had a 2-groove balancer on it, and the 70 had a single groove. I used my 78 balance cause it fit just fine and I needed the double groove to run the P/s and Alt on my car... HOWEVER I didnt realize the possibility of the timing marks being off until reading these posts. Is there anyone that can verify if the timing marks would be different between these two years, or how far off they might be? The 78 engine is loooong gone by now along with all the spare parts so I cant compare them in person...

Thanks in advance and again, sorry for bringing up old stuff

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

I believe 70 and 78 will be the same. The break year was in the 60's.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I just put a romac on my duster 3 days ago because the outer ring started walking forward on my balancer. The romac looks nice it's slightly smaller diameter, lines up with my water pump and alternator but does it pushed my power steering bolt on pulley out too far to line up with the pump. So one more thing to fix

Side note I don't think I would recommend that no name black balancer on ebay for $180 bucks didn't even last 3 years?

Anyone run a crank bolt? what size length? I think I run one now for peace of mind


Kev

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You can always verify the timing mark by bringing the engine to TDC and check the timing mark. I used a spark plug tool. With it you turn the engine over till hits the tool then turn it the other way until it hits the tool then the point in the middle of the two is TDC. It was pretty easy and I got mine within a degree or two of TDC.

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2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

Yea I think I will have to double check it by turning it over and using a stop, I cant use factory settings for timing on it because it runs like crap. So either the mark is off from being mis-matched balancer and timing cover or the outter ring has slipped on the balancer.

I do run a bolt in the middle of the balancer, but I dont know what size it is...

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

the crank bolt, I ended up ordering the Mopar, comes with the washer
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... crank+bolt