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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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OK, so this is your '74, I'm assuming, right?

Do you want another of the same carb you've got (a Holley 1945, which is not a good design) or do you want something better? What's your overall goal?

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 3:21 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
Fully agree with rebuilt carbs being junk. I literally had to rebuild my rebuilt 1920 to get it to run right. Many things wrong with it....no seal on the bowl vent valve, small jet, float set incorrectly, gasket blocking the power valve vacuum orfice, bowl cover warped, metering block was shot, and the choke valve was to tight. Good thing I had several used ones laying around to get good parts off of. The only good thing about my re-man carb was the throttle shaft was tight. I would go with a Holley 1920. Much more reliable carburetor. The only thing is your choke linkage (from the manifold) will be bent the wrong direction (where in hookes into the choke valve on top of the carb.) It will work with a 1920 with some tweaking of the choke valve linkage, or you can find the heated choke from a '73 engine. The 1920's pop up alot on e-bay...sometimes even NOS ones (still need to rebuild them though as the gaskets will be dry and brittle). Run 1920's with at least a #58 jet.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 5:52 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
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The Holley 1945 can be made to run alright even though they are a poor design. The one on my duster works alright, it just needs a richer jet.

They still suck though. Your current remanufactured carb might be rebuildable. Open it up and look mainly for drill marks on the jet. If it has drill marks this means that the idle passages and everything else on the carb has been drilled out too. Most of the time they overdrill them and that really screws things up.

You maybe able to replace the boogered up jet and the carb will run fine, but in my experience the car will run way to rich at idle.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 6:58 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 2:30 pm
Posts: 65
Car Model:
Thanks guys, a guy from moparts is going to send me a carb to rebuild. He's looking to see which model it is, he just has it lying around. As of right now ive decided to do it right and go through everything instead of just trying to get it to run. I'm going through the cooling system, carb is being rebuilt, gas tank will be cleaned, etc. Id like to reduce the amount of 'uh-ohs' once i get it on the road.

So im sure ill have more questions as i go along :D

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 11:00 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 1:05 pm
Posts: 48
Car Model:
I guess I was lucky with my re-built.
I slapped it on, hooked it up, and FURTHER kicked right over. Just needed a little tweaking for the idle speed.
I drove it from SC to OH, did 70-80 all the way, and got 21 mpgs.
No complaints, money well spent in my book.
The main reason I went with a re-built was the throttle shaft was worn on my old one and I couldn't find a boneyard that had one anymore.
The new one also had a new rubber bushing for the linkage that is hard to find and not part of a re-build kit.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 11:13 am 
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The rubber bushing for the '60-'66 rod-operated throttle is available new in the aftermarket.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:18 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
The rubber bushing for the '60-'66 rod-operated throttle is available new in the aftermarket.
The one that the 'L' of the throttle rod goes into?

Where???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:28 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
The rubber bushing for the '60-'66 rod-operated throttle is available new in the aftermarket.
The one that the 'L' of the throttle rod goes into?
Yep.

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Quote:
Where???
Well, I know Gary Goers makes 'em, even in the correct green material. I bet Layson buys them from Goers and marks 'em up. Looks as if Blue Star Spares (Australia) has 'em, too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:45 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
So it's possible to get rid of this:


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Well if it's cheap, I might just do it............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 1:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Ah, the old hose and clamp trick—seen it done many times. Goers' last price on the green grommet was something like $5 or $6, totally reasonable for a perfect repro. Come to think of it, this grommet used to be in the Holley parts system. Wonder if it still is. I'll check and see.

Meanwhile, you have something of a rare carburetor on that car; it's an original '64 unit...that still works!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:42 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
Meanwhile, you have something of a rare carburetor on that car; it's an original '64 unit...that still works!

And the throttle shafts/bushings are even good...........

8)

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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