I need to find out who has had a custom convertor made to mate a small hub crank to a '67 and newer transmission(non-lockup), and where they got the convertor from.

I need this info for a 65 Dart 273 that I want to mate to a 78 904(A-998).
I know this is not a slant question, but I believe the same info will and could help other slanters out as well. I asked the same question before on Moparts and got no useful responses. But today I saw in a thread in the engine section that several people on this board have actually done this already(only with slants of course).

After hearing only negative responses from people I know and from Moparts I was resigned to having to pull the crank and machine the snout to mate a newer convertor to the engine. But now my hopes are up again that there could be a simpler alternative(less time and hassle than pulling the crank from a perfectly good engine and finding a decent machinist)

My plans for the 65 are to ditch the ball and trunion driveshaft, install a low gear set in the 998 and run an imperial services conversion for the console shift(cable to lever)

Thanks in advance,

Charles Borden

You can install the input shaft and some other front components from a pre-'67 transmission into your later non-lockup trans. Then you just go ahead and use the early-style converter and leave the crankshaft alone. Mission accomplished without engine disassembly or custom converter buildup.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am not sure I can do that and still maintain the front clutch assembly of the 998(one of the reasons for choosing this transmission was the extra clutch in the front of the transmission.

Any thoughts on this?

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My cars are all gone, my new affliction is my Jeep Cherokee. I have lifted it, put some armor on it, and preparing for new gears and lockers. After that, bumpers, on-board air and a winch.

I'm not sure, either, but I think you can—though you may have to machine the front clutch housing to accept the extra plates. I had 998 guts in the frankentrans I ran in my '65 for several years, just don't remember exactly which front pieces I had to swap.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I really am hoping for a convertor only solution to my problem. Has anyone had a convertor made/modifed to have the early hub size, but the later input shaft setup?

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My cars are all gone, my new affliction is my Jeep Cherokee. I have lifted it, put some armor on it, and preparing for new gears and lockers. After that, bumpers, on-board air and a winch.

If you want the low gear set, then you must use the complete late style trans. Ask me how I know. I tried to put the low gear set in an early trans, and the splines are different at the input end of the output shaft. Yes, the A-999 has the 5 disc clutch, and yes you can modify the 4 clutch drum tp use 5 discs. I think it is easier to use the complete A-999 with the low gear set, and a hybrid converter.
I know Edge Racing Converters, ans PTC can make the hybrid converter. I have one from each company. I think Midwest converters will do it also.
This can ony be done on the NONLOCKUP 904/998/999 trans
PS: Any one doing a engine rebuild should consider using the late crank, or haveing the early crank machined to the late pilot size. It opens up many more options. The early trans can still be used with a small adapter bushing in the end of the crank.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Got thinking about machining the end of the crank. I don't think it will work. There is a flange to locate the flex plate. I think if the end of the crank is bored out to the late size, this locating flange will be machined away. The late crank has a larger diameter centering flange.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Guess I will chime in here as I am in the middle of a very similar situation.

First I found out that trying to drill out the end of the crank can be done, but like Charlie mentioned you loose the crank hub "bump" that the flex plate registers on.

Second, the torque converter guys I've talked with said they can not build a smaller shaft one that matches the smaller hub because of the spline count.

If I knew now what I knew now and knew what I knew now what I didn't know then,????? Sorry got lost on that one.

If I had to do it over, I would have just got the newer crank when I ordered the kit over 4 years ago! It would have saved me a ton of hassle, headaches and pain in the butt problems!

Anyone want a rebuilt 727 that goes behind a 383 Big Block?
Anyone want a rebuilt 727 with a shift kit that goes behind a slant 6 - without an adapter plate and spacer? In other words a real slant 6 727?
Anyone got a rebuilt 727 with a shift kit that is in a V-8 case?

Confused yet? I am! Even confused the heck out of the converter guy at one of the places - I think it was the guy at Edge - and he's been doing converters for over 20+ years and he is a Mopar guy and he did not know about my little problem with the different cases and the spacer and adaptor plates!

Get a newer crank like I should have done - would have opened up a whole new world for me and I would have been back on the road already.

Later,
Dan

I think most tranny shops have a source for custom convertors that they use. I went to a national chain here in Canada and asked for the small nose for early model crank, smaller splined hub to accomodate early 904 input shaft with the ring gear to take the later model starter. I think the price was very reasonable.

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Cheers!
Al T