alright made some progress today. got the two nuts that were near impossible. used a magnet to get them started, a screw driver to get them snug then jammed a socket in there to torque them down. what a pita. fuel pump is mounted and lines ran. ran electric from the pump up to the engine bay for it. still need to wire in a relay for it. replaced my melted boost line for the gauge. tomorrow i need to drop the tank and put in the bulkhead fitting. not really looking forward to that. full tank of gas too.

Where are you returning in the tank at? I've seen a lot of people who punch a hole in the filler neck to tap into, so they don't have to drop the tank.

My thought for mine was to just put a T behind the fuel pump with a check valve that only allowed that line to flow out towards the back, and attach the return there. I looked all over because I figured no way it would work... but sure enough - lots of people did it.

I'm referencing your build and a couple others a lot here while I do my own... otherwise I'd be in the dark.

i have been thinking about tapping the fill tube. still think im just gonna drop the tank though. i have a new sending unit to put in there as well so two birds one stone. at least i have the pump hooked up. i can use that to drain the tank.

i have been following your build on fabo. looks like you are getting everything together. its going to be challenging to get it all together and maintain driveability. good luck with that man. do you know anyone else that has a slant that isnt using it at the time to mock things up so you can just bolt them up and go?

My landlord for the shop claims to have "several of those dodge slants" in one of his warehouses. The problem is I'd have to find one... Theyre buried behind refridgerators, porsches, lamborghini countachs, a hell of a lot of Jaguars, and various farm equipment. He's a pack rat - a really really rich packrat.

So being the carpenter that I am, you may be surprised to know - that I actually build engines... out of wood. Reason being - to be able to put the "engine" in the boat I am restoring at the time and see how it fits without having to struggle with the real engine - that way I can lay out oil coolers, oil tanks, batteries, etc...

So I'm just going to build a "slant" but only the face of it that goes against the driver's side. It will have the angle of the head and block probably, and a piece representing the K frame and steering box. Then I will bolt the exhaust manifold where it goes and go to town...

The rest of the stuff I am planning on mocking, cutting, drilling, etc as I go.

Basically everything gets run to where it goes, then capped off till everything's together. Someone offered me a dizzy I'm buying as well that advances under vacuum and retards under boost. Luckily a lot of people are willing to part with their old turbo setups they aren't ever going to use again.

that sounds awesome. the wood motors. i would like to see that. sounds like a solid plan. dont forget about the firewall clearance as well. would also like to see the distributor setup.

not a whole lot done today. had some family stuff going on. just wrapping up odds and ends. drilled and tapped my carb hat for the boost reference to the fuel regulator. re ran some boost/vacuum lines. put the rest of what i took apart back together. all that is left is drain/drop the tank and wire in the relay for the fuel pump and change the pickup and adjust the regulator. getting there slowly but surely.

got it all wrapped up today for the most part. all the lines are ran pump is in and pumping. runs, doesn't flood but the fuel pressure gauge isnt reading any pressure. haven't messed with the regulator and not sure if its rising with boost yet. ill figure it out in time. i pulled the tank today went pretty easy. used the pump to get the gas out. the filler neck gasket/grommet disintegrated when i pulled the filler tube out. new one is on the way so i have to wait for that to make a test run. so far im happy with it. time will tell.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/IMG_20140818_120031_465_zps6a4c034c.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_20140818_120031_465_zps6a4c034c.jpg"/>

really wanted to get the return bulkhead fitting higher up in the tank but the hole from the sending unit wasn't big enough to fit my fat fingers any farther than i made it. this could prove to be problematic in the future so ill have to keep an eye on my fuel level. put the new sender in. didn't notice if it worked or not yet was more concerned about getting it running again.

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/20140819_190016_zpsroxflysy.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20140819_190016_zpsroxflysy.jpg"/>

everything is in but the tank/fill tube grommet. then its back to tuning. cant wait to turn it up.

I see in your last pic here, you have the wideband right in the back of the turbo on the downpipe, does it function well there? I always saw things suggesting it be 18 inches back, but I personally wanted it near where you have it. Does it even matter? Or just as long as it's after the turbo?

i heard the 18" from the outlet. i consider that to be the end of the manifold. then i have the j-pipe and the turbo so i figured i would be safe where it is. seems to read well. figured the extra heat might keep it from fouling the sensor. i dont know if it matters. if it stops working for any reason ill be sure to throw an update in here. fwiw i think it is reading accurately. i can smell when it is running rich when stopped and low speeds and the gauge verifies what im smelling.

Sounds good enough for me. You still need to get a video of this car without the wind. lol

lol ill try. once i get it dialed back in ill get some video. gonna wait for a cool day to drive with the windows up.

nice setup

thank you.

This is about the same height mine will wind up, how did the drain line go? Easily 45ish?