Can you get any front end travel at all?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Zilla
Not without reworking the front spindles.
Steering arms hit the lower control arms.
That will be a project for after Tulsa.

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Hyper_pak

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Maybe this shows the issue.
The lump of aluminum resting on the control arm needs to be removed.
However it mounts the steering arm.
So the steering arm needs to be relocated to the spindle before removing the lump.
And then shocks with a couple inches of more travel.

Or, I just go to struts and remove all the old original Hardy/Strange assembly.

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Hyper_pak

1st, best wishes to Jeff, back problems....ugh know them well.
Stan, with a leaky Dr. Rr. shock it looks like it's really letting the axle-wind have it's way, as light as the car & stiff as the rear suspension....I can see the axle pull up a bit on the right & press down on the left. It did spin, but the left side was doin' most of the drivin' on the hit, hence the little bit of a right turn. A rear stabilizer bar would get rid of 90% of that, but not knowing the frt./rear spring-rate balance,...it could make it twitchy at the top end......& We know where that can go w/a short wheelbase..
Honestly, I'm not optimistic the 4bbl swap will solve Your 60ft., but it comes down to multi variables, accel pump discharge, total amount of pump shot etc. It's the most common issue with stick cars, the 'leap & lay down' syndrome.
More torque is king there, or heavier flywheels, some exhaust attention may pay big bennies for You.
Remember, " It's not Air, It's Rare", exhaust is high energy low density..it responds to velocity maintenance & tuned lengths best. Extensions & better w/a merge, no matter how convoluted will pay off, look at Burns oval tubing etc.
When the Caddy Northstar came out, it ran damn good, but little did 99% of the owners know they could get into the PCM through the climate control unit. My Buddy worked for the same dealer from the late '80's 'til He retired, they took one & bumped up the shift points & even shift firmness etc., those things ripped the crap outta the tires & layed tire on every shift. Ran one against a low 14sec Olds & smoked it....those Caddys were not light. The point to this is, if You'd see how convoluted & contorted the single pipe that worked it's way between the trans & steering system/subframe, You would't believe it'd support ANY real HP at all. Sorry for the word dump,....lol..

Thanks Killer6
I have plenty to fix.
I will prioritize changes for next year.
Exhaust and shocks are high on the list.
I throw out the 4 barrel comments just to shake the tree, not many folks seem to find the humor.
Jr. has taught me his secrets of communication to win friends and influence enemies.

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Hyper_pak

What was the 60' the last time out?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

2.2
best it's ever done is a 1.9

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Hyper_pak

I can't see any steering arm in that picture. I am sure it gives you problems, but I can't see where the steering arm/ tie rod end etc. bolts to that AL spindle.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Looks like it is on the bottom of that square chunk going away from you in the picture, posssibly?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

View from front side.

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Hyper_pak

Could you taper the 'lump' for clearance?

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

If the steering arm was on top, yes.
Since it bolts to the bottom, and it is the point of interference, no.

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Hyper_pak

I did some thinking on my steering lift issues.
I made two videos to show the problems.
I think I am going to cut the aluminum spindle and that should add an inch or so.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34Xm1UjrmPk&t=9s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4TO3kV0VZw

This is the planned cut.

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Hyper_pak