3/19/24:

Whilst futzing with my ongoing '62 Valiant wagon project saga, we were driving the '69 Swinger a few times over the last week as the weather was nice.

I bought and installed reproduction Mufflers and a tailpipe for this car maybe 1̶0̶ y̶e̶a̶r̶s̶ a̶g̶o̶? [edit] I double checked the recipt from year one and it was 14 years ago - 2010 to be exact! Man time flies as you approach the old man parts of life! [/edit] the left muffler rotted away in the Left front corner as the exhaust on this car never gets real hot, so it collects a lot of moisture, especially on colder days.

Eventually I will buy another reproduction muffler, but it seems that they are more for show rather than actual driving, cause they rust quick in my application.

So I made a patch from an old ''63 Dart hood - Keep your MoPar all MoPar! It's not pretty, but it does work. While I had the hot glue gun turned on and working, I also placed a bung in the exhaust cutout cap for an O2 Sensor that I can add or remove when needed.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Good work Greg.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I have run duals on my slants that were on the road, but never was a big fan.
On the wagon I decided on the one larger pipe and muffler.
I think that was a better solution.
I was toying with the idea of the Commando V8 resonator and a body cut-out, but didn't do it.
I still have the resonator.

_________________
Hyper_pak

Just a question Greg, do those mufflers have weep holes in them?

My Duster used to collect gobs of water in the bottom of the muffler. I drilled an 1/8" hole just in front of the back seam and it stopped it.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I drill holes in every muffler I install, including these. Repops / Walker/ AP never seem to have that added manufacturing step.

Sometimes I will also drill on the low spots after the muffler in the tailpipe/ tail spout also.

I figured that this one had a low spot in the front corner, so after welding on the patch, i drilled one it the front too. Goofy, but according to the evidence that might help drain some of the condensation.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I agree. I want to ( for now) keep it that way.
I will likely build a skookum correct exhaust for this car some day.

Back when I built this car, I was 19-20 yeats old with no money or skills so stock pipes and muffler shop help was what I used.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I have been driving the car again a bit during the super nice weather we are currently having. The family and I went out to the ice cream shop last night. Continuing my carb tuning that I started back in August-October 2023: I had every change that I made last Fall on a notepad to keep track of impressions and perceived effects of those changes.


There are still little flat spots in the fueling at times, and I found that the engine went into a pretty bad stall at WOT - Like the fuel pump cut out or something... Found that since trimming down the primary circuit for leaner performance and proper idle, the secondary jetting was too lean. I went from 0.095" secondary jets to 0.104" secondary jets and now the WOT operation is correct again.

After the Ice cream shop, I did a quasi-non-permanent install of the O2 Sensor in the Exhaust cutout. I drilled the cutout cap and welded a mild steel bung to it in mid-March 2024. I have had the O2 Gauge sitting in the parts queue ready to go since probably last fall as well.


After installing the AFR Gauge I found that the engine Idled consistently at ~12.5 AFR and the WOT also seemed good in the mid 12's

Temporary installation of the Sensor:



Temporary wire run:

Mounting solution for the Gage was:
Put it in the ashtray, No tape, zip ties, or fasteners are needed.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

It has been a while since the last update - Busy with life and other projects.

The O2 Sensor tuning was a great success with this car - Idle is better than ever and Part / Wide open throttle is about as good as a carburetor will allow.

I believe shortly after I posted here last, the other muffler failed. I patched that one up the same way with some spare sheet metal from a trashed '64 Dart hood.

Rock auto does not list any muffler as available for a '69 dart with any engine combination. I found a universal Muffler that is waaaaaay cheapter than the Restoration Mufflers from Year One or Accurate LTD., which are pricey and seem to fail somewhat quickly for me.

I believe SlantSixDan Has recommended this muffler in the past as it fits Jeep XJ Cherokee's too.
Walker 18113 has the same dimensional case length of an OE v8 A body Muffler and is 2 1/4" in and out. It can be easily modified to fit any A Body with any engine combination with some pipe adapters as needed.
The In and out tubes are long and will need cut to length for my application.


Here is a comparison of the two units before I cut off the extra length on the Walker 18113

Here is a side by side of the old patched up unit and the Walker 18113 with the ends cut off to my specification.


I am picky about muffler and Exhaust work in general - I want clamps and slip fits for future removal cause I tend to keep stuff for a while.
I hate fully welded systems that are installed quick and dirty and need to be cut apart to service the transmission or replace a component.


Both Patchy Units removed:


2 New Walker 18113's installed:


Don't Forget to drill some weep holes, Bro!

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Rock auto has that muffler at a really good price. Search by part number not vehicle. Didn't look at shipping cost.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yes they do.
You can get 6-8 of these for the price of one year one or accurate ltd units.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack