Thanks Dan, I will research this further with the '68 Cars that I have access to.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

3/29/24:

I have been getting some things accomplished:

The 10" Rear parking Brake Levers arrived and got installed.


This 3rd member was missing the pinion snubber, I was going through some bins of parts and found 2 of these that I had stashed away when I was a kit and forgot I had them. So i installed that too.


10" skinny rear brakes installed with levers now! The rear is getting buttoned up!




Notice anything about this flywheel?




Okay Slant 6 Trivia masters did you figure it out?
Stock Small center bore flywheel with the 10" / 9" pressure plate pattern on it and the 10" Mazda/Ford pressure plate bolt pattern on it too.
Paul at my local non automotive machine shop does odd jobs for me and the have a "file on me" too. I am not sure if that is good or bad.. but I can now take any stock slant 6 flywheel to them and they can drill it for the Ford/Mazda 10" diaphragm pressure plate.


Next we'll have to see if this whole shebang fits in the 3 speed a903/a745 bell housing. I would guess that it should but we will see!

Got the engine all dressed up. ready to marry up the the bell, transmission and k frame.


This is not the head to be used - jut stuck on as a lifting point, as I sent my head to get the spring pockets cut 0.045", Tired of waiting on PAC for the retainers. to try out.

Ran out of time this winter for the 5 speed conversion, so maybe next fall for that. I just cleaned up the crummy a903 for now.




Doing down, first floor, Slant 6



All bolted in. Ready for some spindles and suspension bits.



Cleaned up the OE booties and replaced them back on the tie rod ends.



It's back down on all fours with edelbrock front shocks, adjustable front strut bars and big ~1.03 Front Torsion bars.

Brake bleeding and head install / exhaust fab to come in the hopefully near future.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Very cool! When you get a chance, do you have a PN or application for that Ford/Mazda PP? How much torque/HP can it handle?

Oh, remind me what is a parking brake??

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

A nasty little thing you have to have for PA state inspection every year!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Lets dig into the archives:
Not sure on the Torque / HP Figures but it lived successfully behind my '69 Dart from ~2005 to current and from 2012-2023 in my Volare' Duster with lots of street miles.

I am sure Falcon clutch can build you a pressure plate and cover to whatever pressure you need as well as a custom disc.

Here is what I have from 2012, sheesh, we've been at this for a while now!
The McLeod parts are no longer available now.

Some of the 10" x 1" x23 Spline discs I ordered recently did not fit my Chrysler input shaft, so i sent them to Falcon clutch and he changed out the drive hub to Chrysler 1"x23 spline. Seymour warned me of this years ago and I finally ran into this issue with ford discs. Any 10" Chrysler slant 6 truck disc will work fine. You may have to have a clutch rebuild shop such as falcon or Kentucky Clutch put custom facing on a disc that you require.


Some things I found:
I have an old (new) center force pressure plate - It will not fit in the 3 speed bell housing, It might fit in the OD Housing, but I have not tired that yet. The old McLeod Disc fits in the 3 speed housing with some massaging of the outer ridges as on initial mock up and install It hit the bell housing. - I had no interference issues with this plate on the Cast Iron or OD bell housings.

Centerforce Infos:



This is a LUK unit(the orange one) - it is considerably taller than the Red one that I ran. Probably mekes no difference in the O.E. application, but is important when fitting it to a slant!







Hope that is all helpful!

Happy clutching!

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

3/31/24:

I figured out how to fit a 10" Diaphragm Pressure plate into the 3 speed bell. More futzing to shim the fulcrum closer to the plate fingers is needed.

The 10" 1" x 23 Chrysler splined clutch disk is fitted under the pressure plate as well. I have some 1 1/16" x 10 10" Discs ready to go as well for that eventual swap to a T5 transmission in the future.



The brakes are connected and fully bled ( I think), to the best of my ability with one person doing the bleeding.

This looks alot better than the old 9" steam rollers that used to be there before!

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks for the great info, Greg. I am trying to figure out clutches for future stick projects...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

As am I since about 2004!


I had falcon reface and rehub some clutch discs for me in october.. 8 in total. I am set on clutch discs in 9 1/4" and 10" for various applications.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

What is wrong with the bolt in group buy clutch from a couple years ago. Are they not available?

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I don't think there is anything wrong with them. I am not sure on the current availibilty.

They require new money, but I already have what I have here ready to use.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That is a great idea to reface/refurbish old PPs and discs. I have some I need to send to Falcon.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

4/12/24:

Well, I finally moved the car off of the lift. mainly because it has 4 wheels connected to axles and spindles again, and I had broken stuff to fix on my XJ Jeep that the lift made easier work of the job.

I sent the cylinder head to the machine shop 2 weeks ago to get the spring pockets cut down just a little bit, as I was trying to equalize the valve spring pressures for the seat and open. Since this is a second or 3rd hand head it has had work done to it before. I got some Speedway small block Chevy springs, so it needed a spring locator in the spring pocket to keep the springs from flailing around as the springs are quite a bit smaller on the I.D. compared to MoPar Slant 6 / LA valve springs. So that means all different retainers and locks too.

I fussed around off and on for seemingly months to get the correct combination of parts to make these valves, springs, locks, etc work correctly with each other. I also had trouble because my valve spering micrometer was for larger valve spring retainers and it was difficult to get an accurate measurement for the installed heights.

I got a PAC Racing spring height micrometer T-904. It's meant for LS engines but it works with these little SBC retainers too, It's pricey but the height measurements will be "dead nuts on correct".


My "el cheapo micrometer" "fell short" due to the retainer diameter being small.
I made some shims for it but they turned out to be garbage as well.




The PAC Micrometer is tiny but works well for the small OD Retainers.


Phew! Finally! Ready for studs, temp sending unit, paint, and put this head in the car to hang some headers and build the rest of the exhaust!

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

4/15/24:

Happy Tax Day.
Pay the government today!

In Valiant news:

I got the head Painted, 13 new manifold studs installed with sealer, and it is ready to place on the car.
Fun Fact: 2 of the head bolts cannot be removed/ installed on the '60-'62 A bodies with a 225 and the heater box installed!

A new Victor gasket with copper spray goo was placed on the block as well.







I got the cylinder head on, all torqued, lifters installed rocker arm installed, new Smith Brothers push rods in stock length installed, rough cold lash set, filled with water, intake, exhaust, and other side and front of engine accessories installed, etc.

Had to futz around with the starter because it stopped starting somehow. On this setup, the manifolds/header need to be removed to remove the starter, so I got some more practice at removing and installing slant 6 manifolds. After pulling the starter, I took it apart and put it back together and it started starting again, I probably overtightened something on the starter's terminal block allowing an intermittent connection, but I seem to have fixed it after removal and reassembly.

Got it to crank over and prime the oiling system until the Warning light went off. I still need to install an oil pressure gauge before the initial fire. I will probably spin it over a bunch again to get some oil over to the rockers. It is ready to fire once I connect the fuel lines and get the Spark plugs in, but I will wait until I build some exhaust off of the headers to get the exhaust to exit below the car.

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Videos with sound, of the startup!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You betcha! Why not?

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack