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| Gas in Carb Boiling https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10022 |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Aug 18, 2004 7:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The 3-fitting filter is readily available in any parts store, right now, today. Yes, the vapor-separating kind, not the water-separating kind. I don't know what parts stores you're going to or what you're asking for, but these ARE available. |
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| Author: | johnnysix [ Sun Aug 22, 2004 1:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | boiling gas |
I remember awhile back I saw a 79 newport on a beat used carlot..Just for kicks I stopped in to see if she might b a slant6.Sure enuff,she was!! Had a rather large heat shield bolted below the carb...Anyonelse seen these things? Also,the only way I restart them after being hot or boiling is to hold the pedal to the floor while cranking. {pizza delivery}... 63 val, 77 volare supersix |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Aug 22, 2004 8:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The heat shield was used on late-'70s and early-'80s Slant-6 applications. Some were made out of sheet aluminum, and others were made out of fibreboard. Holding the pedal on the floor gets around the symptom but does not solve the problem. |
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| Author: | Guest [ Sat Oct 23, 2004 6:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Iam having a somewhat similar problem, when I shut the engine off after driving most of the time I have gas leaking from between the carb to intake gasket for a sort time. I installed a Holley rebuilt Holley carb, my truck had the carb heatshield but it was kind of trashed so I did not reinstall it . I will probably make a new one out .063 or .090 aluminum at work however I am not so sure that heat is causing the trouble. Can anyone here sheds some light on my problem? I also seem to be having trouble with logging in to forum, my username is RedRamSix. Thanks |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat Oct 23, 2004 7:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Been there and done that numerous times. Here is how to fix a bunch of starting/running problems at the same time: Remove the metal line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor and throw it away. Install a 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass fitting in the fuel pump outlet and another in the carb inlet. These fittings can be had from any well-stocked hardware store that carries the Dorman "orange drawers" line of springs, fittings, etc. The Dorman part number is 492-024; Everbrass number is 1791. Between these fittings I run a length of 5/16" I.D. *fuel injection* hose (marked SAE 30R9, not the less heat-resistant old-fashioned 30R7 stuff that doesn't do well with modern gas formulations over time -- be sure to get fuel injection hose clamps, too). This line runs vertically up from the fuel pump, over the valve cover, and across to the carburetor. The fuel filter (with a metal can, the plastic ones sometimes don't do well with oxygenated gas) gets installed vertically so it's right behind the alternator...this keeps it away from heat and the alternator fan cools it down further. Much better than the stock location where it gets heated up by the exhaust manifold! With this setup, a lot of the bitchy hot and cold start problems disappear, because you're no longer boiling fuel in that metal line when you shut off the engine. Try it, you'll like it! Holley carbs cause problems. Get a Carter. |
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| Author: | guest [ Sat Oct 23, 2004 8:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Dan I was reading old posts in the forums here last night and I did take your advice and replaced the metal fuel line with the setup you suggested. I also tried to jerry rig a quick and dirty carb heatshield, no luck with the problem. I will look into the Carter carb as I will be tossing the ESC setup soon. Thanks RedRamSix. |
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