There is something the matter with your compressor and/or your compressor bracketry. Find and fix the problem(s)!

I doubt the compressor on your Duster is "fairly new" -- I bet it's a "remanufactured" one. As with all "remanufactured" parts, reman compressors tend to be garbage. It would not at all surprise me if you got a bad one. Also, you don't just reef on the belt -- you check its alignment, you check the bearings in the idler pulley, etc.

Also, your Ram does not have a "centrifugal" compressor; there's no such thing.

Dan,
I've also heard that they were good compressors, but their day ended 25 years ago. My local AC repair shop quit servicing the RV2 units several years ago and they can no longer get any parts from their suppliers. They only replace the complete compressor with "rebuilt" units. They had problems with the last of the RV2 compressors that they replaced crankshaft seals in (mine included).

I was lucky to get all the gaskets and seals for my RV2 from a place in Texas a couple years ago, and the LAST EPR valve from a different place, and the LAST valve plate assemblies that remained in the Chrysler parts locator system. I also found the LAST piston and rod assemblies on Ebay several years ago. I have all the parts to rebuild the compressor one time and that will be it.
So where did you say these parts are available from????

I have enough information and knowledge and skill now that I will rebuild my RV2 myself. I certainly will not let anyone else touch it after I've seen the work that some of these "professionals" out there do.

Why do I want to remove the EPR valve? Is there a kit available to convert it to cycling clutch system? I see in my 1973 Chrysler service manual that the Valiant cars used a cycling clutch system back then. However my 1976 Valiant does NOT use cycling clutch system and the 1976 service manual verifies that.

I have also had a problem with the squealing and chirping belt at engine idle speed. I know about the "peaky" torque of the RV2 and how uneven it is but with the large diameter pulleys and short 3/4" throw of the compressor crankshaft I don 't understand why it should be chirping the belt. I suspect this problem will be worse with R134 because of the higher discharge pressure?
I hope I can find something like a broken reed valve to explain the chirping belt problem.

Craig -- remember, our cars' "day" ended 25 years ago, too.

All the V2 repair parts are available right over the counter from NAPA or any Four Seasons A/C parts stockist. I'll supply catalogue numbers later today (not in my office at the moment) -- and they'll be from the CURRENT catalogue. Gaskets, valve plates, complete repair kits, etc., whatever you need, it's all still available. I donno who's telling you you got the "last" EPR valve, valve plates, etc., but that's not right. As far as shaft seals go, as with anything else, quality matters. More detail, again, later when I'm at the office.

Belt squealing, as I say, is addressed by making sure the brackets are set up correctly and the idle bearing is good.

Eliminating the EPR valve and going to a clutch cycling switch is very, very easy. There are fifteen pages of clutch cycling switches shown in the current 4-Seasons book...pick whatchya want! Rotary adjustable, slide adjustable, screwdriver adjustable, non-adjustable...thermo-electric, electronic...for your application, which is a reheat system, I would install either a non-adjustable or a screwdriver-adjustable unit -- that way no new holes to drill in the dashboard, and you can just continue to adjust the air temperature as you presently do, with the existing temperature slider. The advantage of a CCS over an EPR is that the CCS is binary (on or off) while the EPR begins to throttle the low side line when the evaporator is as warm as 40 degrees F -- makes it take longer to get nice and cold.

DS

Hokay, here we go with Four Seasons numbers:

EPR valve (for reference only, don't use it, see above): 38831

Gasket and O-ring kit: 24002

Page w/shaft seal kit number is missing (torn out) but I know it's in there.

Other stuff (valve plates, etc.) are available from e.g. Classic Auto Air and other suppliers. Remember, the "remanufacturers" who throw together their garbage get those parts from somewhere!

Belt squealing again: Make sure you have the correct pulley on your compressor. The 5-1/4" diameter unit used on V8s is too small for use with the slant-6 drive pulley setup. That small V8 pulley is only possible on the V8s because the V8s use twin compressor drive belts.

Clutch cycling switch I tossed in my truck: 35822.

Clutch cycling switch I also bought and tossed behind the seat in my truck to try it out sometime: Electronic 35811.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for all the information Dan!
I will check it out.
I know parts are out there somewhere if "rebuilders" are rebuilding them.
Any known issues using R134 with an (R)V2?
Everyplace except one said OK. The one place said can't do, R134 pressures are too high. I know they are not that much higher, and the system relieve valve is set somewhere around 450 PSI.

Belt squealing...... there is nothing wrong with my brackets or pulleys. All factory issue , bolted tight, and enough belt tension. Also can't go too tight on the belt or the compressor crankshaft will break (Chrysler TSB that I have).

Craig

R134a works fine with a V2 compressor as long as the correct oil *and a good shaft seal* are used, but be advised that 134a is less efficient than 12. There's really no reason to use anything other than 12, unless you live someplace like Canada where R12 is no longer legal for use in cars.
If I haven't already mentioned it, be sure to put in a parallel-flow condenser.

Still waiting to hear what your compressor pulley diameter is.

The original stamped steel compressor pulley is about 6-3/4" diameter. It was dark when I measured it. I also have an inertia pulley from a Volaré that measures about 7" diameter.