Did the converter "nose" (front hub) seat correctly into the back of the crankshaft? Did the converter pull forward and contact the flex plate before installing the bolts?

You may want to loosen the flex plate to converter bolts and "push & pry" the converter around to be sure it is well seated into the crank register. Also inspect the converter to see if it has any large balancing weight welded to it. It may be that your replacement converter is made / balanced for a cast crank V8 engine, these are the same size / shape as the SL6 converter but have a big extra weight added / welded to them.

There is also the chance the the front pump bushing in the trans is worn or damaged from the failed converter dirve hub. (tube) was any work done to the transmission when it was out?
DD

Which is the preliminary failure scenerio? The converter drive hub breaks and then damages or wears the pump bushing, or does the pump bushing wear out causing the converter to be damaged? I'm very interested/concerned about the issue since I've been leaning tward a 904 instead of the stronger (and heavier) 727 route.

Should I replace this bushing as a precautionary measure on any used or rebuilt 904 transmission I find, or is it part of a standard rebuild? Is there an easy way to check it's condition before installing a transmission (the bushing not the converter?

Sorry if I'm leading this thread off aimlessly.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Yes, and I checked that once more yesterday.


I'm Quite a sure that there was no weights, But probably I have to open everything and we'll see
I only changed the front seal. And there was no problem's than oil leak before replacing TC.[/quote]

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Sorry, my english is not very good

To address Slant6Ram's questions, usually the hub cracks first, although bushing wear is a common problem on most transmissions.
Once the crack progresses down into the bushing area, it chews it up pretty quickly and starts the seal leaking.
With the front seal removed, you can *sort of* see the bushing, but it's a good idea to replace it and the seal anytime the trans is out anyway.
The front pump needs to be removed and disassembled to replace the bushing.
There are aftermarket bushings designed with a ring that hold up better, but the real problem is the converter, of course.
Aftermarket converters are usually strentghened in this area to prevent the problem.

Joug, I hope you get this thing figured out!

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

I took apart Torgue converter and took it back to garage which repairs them. They checked it and it was balanced and ok. Now the whole tranny is under work, everything will be done. There is probably also problems with valve that uses lockup, because I have never noticed that lockup contacts.

And that front bushing really should be replaced, what I didn't do.

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Sorry, my english is not very good

Now whole tranny is rebuild, It really needed it. It's working very well now, but There is still that VIBRATION.

I also changed U-Joints, but it didn't help. I Knew It, but now no-one can say anything about them.

Is there somenthing inside TC that can cause vibration. TC is 0-balanced, but when it is under pressure, is there somenthing that can make it unbalanced.

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Sorry, my english is not very good

There is still that vibration. If anybody knows about these lockup converters and can tell me if there can be somenthing that could cause this kind of vibration, I would be very pleased to know it.

TC has been balanced, but they only balance TC "cover". Is it possible that those parts that are inside TC could cause vibration under certain rpm's?

I also have noticed that when out temperature is getting lower, also vibration comes stronger.

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Sorry, my english is not very good