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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 2:03 pm 
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All of the "D"s I can think of seem to be fairly damn knowledgeable (if not as all-knowing as they may think :wink: )
Aw, what the hell do you know? Image :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 2:04 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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Thanks to all that replied. My truck has a manual tranny - 3 Spd w/OD and Federal Emmissions not CA. But as I mentioned previously in this post the Smog Pump had already been removed when I bought it. I found the ESA computer...i think. It's mounted right behind the battery...no wonder I couldn't find the Ignition Module. I think I'll start by replacing the coil and plugs.

Also, the fuel pump is manual not electric. Does this mean that it's driven by the cam? If so, then that would explain why I would get no fuel when I loose spark when driving right? The carb. gets fuel when cranking because the starter is turning the engine over, thus moving the cam, and in turn operating the fuel pump. If I loose fire while running then I have nothing combusting in the cylinders to move the pistons, then the cam doesn't turn, thus the fuel pump stops funtioning. That means I probably have fouled my flugs as well from lots of cranking but not starting. Is this correct or could someone please explain how a manual fuel pump works?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2005 9:37 pm 
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:? :? :| :?:

Correct, You have a mechanical fuel pump driven by the eccentric on the cam shaft. It will pump fuel (in pulses) anytime the engine is turning. If you loose ignition (even if you loose your complete electrical system) and are coasting down hill with the transmission in gear so the wheels are turning the engine the fuel pump will still pump fuel.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 12:24 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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No No No Mr. Know-it-all
Here, Craig, have a lollypop. It'll brighten your day. And I'll get you a fresh bowl of Cheerios; somebody's obviously pissed in yours.

While you're workin' on your Cheerios and lollypop, I'll be reserving the rights to be wrong once a month (but no oftener!), and to have opinions and experience that differ from your own. :wink: :D :mrgreen: :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:
I think what I was wrongly identifying on the firewall was the voltage regulator.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 12:37 pm 
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I think what I was wrongly identifying on the firewall was the voltage regulator.
If what you were looking at is on the firewall almost directly over the valve cover, and has two wires coming out of a triangle-shaped electrical connector (wires would either be green and blue or green and red), that is the Voltage Regulator.

-S/6


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 1:11 pm 
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Yep. Two-wired box on the firewall = voltage regulator; three-wired box on the firewall = EGR timer.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:39 pm 
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Yep. Two-wired box on the firewall = voltage regulator; three-wired box on the firewall = EGR timer.
Here I am to burst your bubble again. :twisted:

There are some exceptions to that "rule". :shock:

There is another three-wired box that looks exactly like the EGR timer, and if I recall correctly it also uses the same connector. It is a "electronic speed switch" that was used on 1975 model year vehicles as part of the catalyst overtemp protection system used with the then new catalytic converter. This seems to have been a one-year-only thing from informatin I have here. (and having owned one of those cars)

Also many of the "two-wire" voltage regulators actually appear to have 3 wires (or maybe FOUR wires :shock: )coming out of them. The third wire is used on many late 70's and 80's vehicles and goes to the diagnostic connector. The other extra wire (if present) connects to a capacitor which is bolted to a body ground, sometimes under the same bolt that fastens the voltage regulator.

This all makes things confusing for those who are not familiar with these variations and makes it impossible for us to say what you have just because you tell us it has two or three or four wires coming out of it.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 8:31 pm 
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Here I am to burst your bubble again.
Not from where I sit. You provided additional information that I didn't provide. That's not a bad thing, it's a good thing.
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There are some exceptions to that "rule". :shock:
With '70s-'80s "hang on and pray" emission control devices and the reams and reams of TSBs and recalls and midyear running changes, PLUS two to three decades of aftermarket fixes? You bet there're exceptions to virtually every "rule"! You're absolutely right.
Quote:
There is another three-wired box that looks exactly like the EGR timer, and if I recall correctly it also uses the same connector. It is a "electronic speed switch" that was used on 1975 model year vehicles as part of the catalyst overtemp protection system used with the then new catalytic converter. This seems to have been a one-year-only thing from informatin I have here. (and having owned one of those cars)
You are right on all counts here. I didn't bring it up 'cause the OP's truck doesn't have a catcon overtemp protection system.
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Also many of the "two-wire" voltage regulators actually appear to have 3 wires (or maybe FOUR wires :shock: )coming out of them. The third wire is used on many late 70's and 80's vehicles and goes to the diagnostic connector.
Interesting. Can't say I've ever run across one of those, either in the world or in the books. There was a voltage regulator used on '69 (only) Imperials (only) with the one-year/one-model-only insulated-field alternator, that looks just like the '70-up 2-pin electronic regulator, 'cept the '69 Imperial item 2875400 has three terminals.

What have you found these 3 wire "with diagnostic" regulators on? I just did a dozen spot checks in the parts catalogues, and they're showing me the same 2-pin electronic regulator (original number 3418150, many superseded numbers, NAPA Echlin VR38) from '70 clear on up through the end of the external regulator in cars in '89 and trucks in '90.
Quote:
The other extra wire (if present) connects to a capacitor which is bolted to a body ground, sometimes under the same bolt that fastens the voltage regulator.
H'm. So a third pin with a dedicated ground wire? Interesting. Would like to know what you found it on.
Quote:
This all makes things confusing for those who are not familiar with these variations and makes it impossible for us to say what you have just because you tell us it has two or three or four wires coming out of it.
When trying to ID components, a photo can be of great help. The advent of the digital camera is a tremendous help for remote diagnosis.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 12:20 pm 
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The early '80s RWD Mopars have the 3 wire voltage regulator. In fact I have one on my '65 with the 2 wire plug, plugged in.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 12:33 pm 
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The early '80s RWD Mopars have the 3 wire voltage regulator. In fact I have one on my '65 with the 2 wire plug, plugged in.
Fascinating. It seems not to be serviced at all, looks like it supersedes to the 2-pin regulator. In both the Mopar and aftermarket parts systems, '80 Mirada, '81-'82-'83-'84 Gran Fury all call for the same 2-pin voltage regulator used on '70-'79 and '85-'90 cars and trucks.

Does yours happen to have a part number visible? I'd like to dig into this some more.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 1:21 pm 
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The early '80s RWD Mopars have the 3 wire voltage regulator. In fact I have one on my '65 with the 2 wire plug, plugged in.
Fascinating. It seems not to be serviced at all, looks like it supersedes to the 2-pin regulator. In both the Mopar and aftermarket parts systems, '80 Mirada, '81-'82-'83-'84 Gran Fury all call for the same 2-pin voltage regulator used on '70-'79 and '85-'90 cars and trucks.

Does yours happen to have a part number visible? I'd like to dig into this some more.
Yeah it has a part # stamped on it and it's made by Wells. I'll check it out when I get home from work and let you know then.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:46 pm 
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Ok, now we have some confusion going on here. :?

There is only the 2-pin regulator available that we are all familiar with. It's the vehicle wire harness that can have 3 wires going into the connector that plugs into the regulator. Two of these wires are connected to the same pin on the regulator.

Hope this clears up the confusion.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 5:39 pm 
My -77 aspen wagon had a regulator with 3 wires.
One went to a cap. on the firewall.
The regulator had 2 contact-pins, and so did the connector.
The cap was connected to the middle wire.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 5:46 pm 
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Pictured below is the Voltage Regulator location on '81-'87 Trucks.

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/Slanted_Mind/enginebay.jpg", width=500>


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 8:30 pm 
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This one is to SlantsixDan
I have been wondering, Now we all know what happens when you add O2 to a torch. The flame gets hotter. So i was wondering how you figure that the cat gets hotter when you remove the o2 pump? And ever hot enought to melt the guts of a cat? My dakota has a cat and no o2 pump so does that mean the cats are melted and if so mabey you should write chrysler and tell them. and when you go and buy a cat you don't buy for o2 pump w/ or w/o? where are you getting this.


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