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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 8:33 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
yahoo! I get to take it back off the stand! Maybe the second time connecting it will be easier than the first ;-) I definitely have to find the right size bolt for that front lifting point since its a smaller diameter than the rear. Sounds like a fun project! If I'm taking the head to have it cleaned, should I just go ahead and have it milled down some as well?

MJ


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 8:39 am 
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yahoo! I get to take it back off the stand! Maybe the second time connecting it will be easier than the first ;-) I definitely have to find the right size bolt for that front lifting point since its a smaller diameter than the rear. Sounds like a fun project! If I'm taking the head to have it cleaned, should I just go ahead and have it milled down some as well?
Well, thinking further about it, I remembered that you've already decided to change the camshaft, so you could check it an easier way without going backwards off the stand: Go ahead and remove the rocker shaft, then when you remove the camshaft and oil pan, you can pour or spray carb cleaner down the rearmost rocker shaft bolt hole and watch the rear cam bearing to see if it gets wet.

As far as milling the head goes, yeah, you can do that, and if you do decide to remove the head, you'll want to carefully decide how much to mill. The composition head gasket is the one to pick for a reassembly, and it's thicker than the original shim steel gasket, so you'd mill some to make up for that difference, and if you want to mill some more to pick up a little compression, you can. Don't go overboard or you'll have ping problems. Others know better than I the specifics of head gasket thicknesses, etc. Maybe Doc can talk about angle milling if you start a new topic with title "angle milling head?" in the Engine forum.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 8:52 am 
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Helter Skelter.......

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 8:53 am 
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Helter Skelter.......
You gots blisters on yer fingers?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:05 am 
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Helter Skelter.......
Why, you're not "sandy in BC" at all you're "charlie in SQ"!!! :shock: :wink:

How's life in the joint? Talk to sqeaky lately?

D/W

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:10 am 
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Before working on how much to mill, measure your piston deck height (clearance) at TDC with a good set of calipers. A stack of feeler gauges on a clean piston top and a nice straight-edge will do in a pinch. That's assuming you're keeping those pistons. You'll probably end up wanting to mill somewhere between .050 - .090", but get the measurements first and decide what gasket you are using. I think most composition head gaskets are about .040" compressed.

D/W

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:19 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Before working on how much to mill, measure your piston deck height (clearance) at TDC with a good set of calipers.
Good resource article for doing this? I'll check my FSM at home or see if I can find an engine rebuilding book to see how to do this. I have a caliper so I should be able to do this.

MJ


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:20 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Helter Skelter.......
?? Whatcha talking about Willis?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 10:42 am 
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Before working on how much to mill, measure your piston deck height (clearance) at TDC
Not that this is a bad thing to do, but...why? The piston deck stops about 1/3” below the block deck at TDC on a stock '62 225...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 11:51 am 
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Because we didn't have you to chime in with that data. :shock: (until now!)

I wuz gonna suggest that NLM set himself up with as close to 9:1 as possible, and to do that accurately, he will the requisite data.

D/W

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 12:11 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Ok well Dennis, i'll call ya up and get some details from ya on measuring. I'll try and get the head off this weekend once I get my truck fixed and the window back in place

MJ


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 12:18 pm 
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Because we didn't have you to chime in with that data. :shock: (until now!)

HELDa SKELDa! (DOW-NOW-NOW-NOW-NOW-NOW-NOW!) HELLda SKELLda! (DOW-Now-Now-Now-Now-Now-Now...) HELTA SKELTA! (DOW-Now-Now-Now-Now-Now-Now) Yeah...When it gets to the bottom it goes back to the top of the STROKE, then it stops and it turns and it, um, utters a JOKE, till it gets to the bottom and it cycles aGAINNNNNNNNN, Yeah-yeah-YEAH-heah!

*ahem* Yes, sir, knocking it off, sir, right away, sir, cutting it out, sir...
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I wuz gonna suggest that NLM set himself up with as close to 9:1 as possible, and to do that accurately, he will the requisite data.
True. Good suggestion. The increased overlap of whichever cam NLM winds up with should help avert pinging. (looking like an MP 244—I sent my new in box example to Doc for his cam grinder to "pattern", so this cam will once again be available).

Someday I'd like to put together a long-rod RG engine with zero deck height (piston deck comes all the way up to block deck). It would probably require some thoughtful combustion chamber rework to make it work without pinging, but some of what I've seen done with "Swedish Slant-6s" (Volvo B18-B20-B30 engines) is truly amazing. 10:1 and higher with a rock steady idle, on street gasoline without pinging.

-DS (...Tell me, tell me, tell me your answer; ya may be a Valiant butchya ain't no Lancer!)


Last edited by SlantSixDan on Sat Mar 12, 2005 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 1:31 pm 
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:?
I don´t think you can call a Volvo B "" a Slant, the most it lean is about 1 degr.


Regards Skraecken

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:10 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Dan, I take it you dont think much of the toilet roll filters. What sort of issues have you run into with them?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:19 pm 
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Now *there's* a filter I might wipe my butt with! :twisted:


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