Hey JoP, I have some problems too with the starter of my /6. I got the advice of replacing the part instead of rebuilding it. I am planning to install a set of Dutra Duals in the future and need some clearance for the exahust pipes; that is why they recommended me to install a Nippondenso mini starter. I found one in eBay, here's the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 86633&rd=1

I am a newbie, but just wanted to share the advices I got.

Ed

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My other car is... another DUSTER!!! .·.

There's no direct-drive starter that can easily be made to fit in place of an original Mopar gear-reduction starter. If the starter you rebuilt looks more or less like this:


then it is a gear-reduction starter. If it does NOT look anything like those pictures, then it's likely the late-model mini starter also will NOT fit, so if there's a marked appearance difference, then post a picture of the starter you're working with.
Define "decent price"! How soon do you want to re-do the job again? You can get a no-name item (GDI-TransPro, probably made in China) from RockAuto for $170. You can get a higher-quality name-brand item (a Modine, for instance) for somewhat more than that.

I used a '76 Aspen HD A/C radiator for the \6. This is a 22"x18" 2 core radiator that fits the A-body chassis. This is a nice radiator and is the biggest radiator that will fit the opening in my '65 Dart. On my '65, I had to redrill the lower mounting holes to make it fit correctly. I have detailed the install in another posting. A search should turn that posting up.

It is available from the local Shucks or the PartsAmerica online site. I paid $180 for the one I ordered and it was Made in America. You will need to use a '78 Aspen \6 A/C upper radiator hose and a '75 Dart lower radiator hose to make it work correctly.

?

More than one auto parts retard told me that Modine is no longer in the rad business, I was trying to get one of their heater cores. (I settled on a Stant one from Cancore for $55 BTW...)

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Don't you run the risk of overcooling your engine with an oversize rad? If your slant is on 'roids, OK, but I would advise against throwing a monster rad into an otherwise stock car. There was a reason the slant rad was smaller, and it wasn't all about the benjamins.

Speaking of benjamins, JoPapa, recoring a rad is almost always cheaper than replacing it, and it doesn't matter whether the joints have failed in one tube or all of them, the entire core is replaced anyhow. As long as your tanks and braces are there, it makes no difference. I usually get Toyota lift truck rads recored with industrial cores for about $90 CDN.

How much do they charge you for each repair? Cause if one joint has failed, the other ones aren't usually far behind, and between the PITA to pull the rad each time, turnaround time at the shop, antifreeze (what, $7/gal) and the repair bill, youre probably paying for a new core whether you have one or not.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

The only way to over cool the engine is to remove the thermostat.
Larger rads contain more coolant for the extreme heat of summer/ sitting in traffic, as well as the case of a slow leak elseware. Around here labor rates are so high that it really isn't cost effective to have a rad recored.

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Yep, that's indeed the one I rebuilt. I stand corrected. Guess the late model Nippondenso starter will be the way to go

Funny, people talk about them being so great now that their stuff is used on Chrysler and Chevy/GM vehicles, when Toyota has been using them for a LONG time. Every part of the electrical system on my Land Cruiser is ND, and has lasted (so far) for 17 years and 210K miles...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The Modine people will be very amused to learn they no longer make radiators. They think they still do.

I don't even bother with recores. Any time i run into a bad radiator, I get a brand new one from the Modine warehouse in town. As an example: 1998 Olds silouette, new modine radiator $ 149.95.

http://www.modine.com/english/index.php

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

The "new radiator" approach is a fine one for applications still available as new radiators. Many '60s applications don't qualify.

Dan, you are correct. But, I just called my Modine warehouse, and they have a listing for 67 valiant (in stock) slant six. Walk in off the street price is about $199. Being a shop, my price is $139.40. That is the earliest listing they have for "A" bodies. They do have stores all over the country, 12 in Calf.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Was 67 when they started going to the square radiator? I have two 62 radiators, so I'm trying to find a place that will recore it reliably. Would the later model 67 radiator work? It'd alteast be nice to know that was an option.

MJ

No, the original '67-'68 radiators were still "round top" items. The current new replacements for those applications are square-top. And a '65-up radiator (wide left bracket) won't bolt into a '62 (in fact, even a '63-'64 narrow-bracket radiator won't bolt in); the '60-'62 radiators have the core positioned differently front-to-back, 'cause these cars have VERY short engine compartments. That doesn't necessarily mean you can't make an alternate radiator fit with a sawzall and big dåmn drill, if you get completely desperate. But, probably best eventually to have a high-efficiency 3-row core put in your original '62 radiator. It'll fit right, and it'll prevent overheating when you add the aircon.

What's the opinion on Transpro radiators? Dan mentioned them as a "no-name" radiator so I would assume probably not too good. would that be pretty close?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

As far as I know, Transpro is one of those "insta brands" that pops up in order to market Chinese trash in the first world.