I put the mentioned C body pieces on a 68 Barracuda.
I remember Condran's book having the wrong Moog
numbers.
I looked up NAPA numbers, cross referenced them
and also looked up specific C body models and finally
got the right numvers(which I don't have right in fron of me
anymore.
Haven't driven the project car yet- getting close.
They went on just like they were made for it.

Just ask for a 76 Plymouth Fury (74-78 should work).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

If you pick up a Moog catalog you'll find in the back a reference table showing all of the parts. Basically the only difference between the different ends and sleeves is the length.

I ran the mid-'70's C body stuff on my B body for quite awhile then the last time I went thru the front end I switched to billet adjusters. A little hard to see in the picture but they are there. I picked up a set from Firm Feel. They were a tiny bit too long for my application but nothing I couldn't fix in a jiffy.

And personally, I have yet to find that F-M parts are consistently worse than others. Some divisions of F-M have suffered far worse under the financial stress than others- Wagner, for example, has definitely been flushed down the crapper. But Champion plugs still work far better in my cars than any other brand (sorry, Dan, but I've had the kind of luck with Autoshites that you've had with Champions!). I just bought a set of Moog ball joints that still have all the Moog design features that made them better than TRW (like nested bearing cups with grease slots). It may be that there are "downgraded" Moog parts in the pipeline now and I just got a set of older stock parts, but I haven't seen the evidence yet.

But one thing you gotta remember that it COSTS a company a fair amount money to redesign and cheapen a part that has been in production for decades, like a 60's Mopar balljoint, because it means changing out all the production tooling. Also the payoff, that is to say savings in production cost to recover the initial design change cost, is much slower on older-car parts that have dropped down to lower production rates. So really, those kind of parts aren't really on the front line for "money saving" redesigns. New parts, say ball joints for 2005 cars, for example, would be first in line for cheapening. The thing you gotta watch out for with older-design Moog parts- or those from any company, really- is related more to slacking off on QA, and moving production to places with notoriously crappy QA like China, for example. The parts I bought were out of Mexico, which has a pretty good reputation in auto parts, believe it or not.

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Sorry, I should have typed "FM" for Federal Mogul. F-M is Fairbanks-Morse.

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mag-
for quite some time Federal Mogul had been lovingly referred to as
"F@#%ing Mongrel" by both auto techs and parts couterpeople alike. despite the obvious insult to fine mongrels the world over!

-james

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Andy-

I notice firm feel carries both the 11/16" and 3/4" set. Which did you use and how do you like them?

(Yeah these are on my Xmas list along with a few other things this year...)




-D.Idiot

DI - I have the C body 11/16 tie rod ends. The 3/4 stuff looks like special NASCAR ends or something.