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C-body Tie Rod on Early A-bodies? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12255 |
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Author: | imnoisydart [ Wed Apr 27, 2005 1:08 pm ] |
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I put the mentioned C body pieces on a 68 Barracuda. I remember Condran's book having the wrong Moog numbers. I looked up NAPA numbers, cross referenced them and also looked up specific C body models and finally got the right numvers(which I don't have right in fron of me anymore. Haven't driven the project car yet- getting close. They went on just like they were made for it. |
Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Apr 27, 2005 2:10 pm ] |
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Just ask for a 76 Plymouth Fury (74-78 should work). Lou |
Author: | slantvaliant [ Mon Jun 13, 2005 9:57 am ] |
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Author: | andyf [ Mon Jun 13, 2005 10:33 am ] |
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If you pick up a Moog catalog you'll find in the back a reference table showing all of the parts. Basically the only difference between the different ends and sleeves is the length. I ran the mid-'70's C body stuff on my B body for quite awhile then the last time I went thru the front end I switched to billet adjusters. A little hard to see in the picture but they are there. I picked up a set from Firm Feel. They were a tiny bit too long for my application but nothing I couldn't fix in a jiffy. ![]() |
Author: | 440_Magnum [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 8:55 am ] |
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Quote: Quote: Whichever parts you wind up with, try to avoid Moog. They are a Federal-Mogul brand. FM is in very serious financial distress
The problem with avoiding F-M branded products, is you eliminate 75 % of the available parts. F-M bought up so many companies some years back.and has been for awhile now. They long ago began taking money out of "product" (as the MBAs refer to everything). Much of their stuff is now sourced out of China and similar countries. I think all manufactures are "taking money out of the product" But one thing you gotta remember that it COSTS a company a fair amount money to redesign and cheapen a part that has been in production for decades, like a 60's Mopar balljoint, because it means changing out all the production tooling. Also the payoff, that is to say savings in production cost to recover the initial design change cost, is much slower on older-car parts that have dropped down to lower production rates. So really, those kind of parts aren't really on the front line for "money saving" redesigns. New parts, say ball joints for 2005 cars, for example, would be first in line for cheapening. The thing you gotta watch out for with older-design Moog parts- or those from any company, really- is related more to slacking off on QA, and moving production to places with notoriously crappy QA like China, for example. The parts I bought were out of Mexico, which has a pretty good reputation in auto parts, believe it or not. |
Author: | 440_Magnum [ Thu Jun 23, 2005 8:58 am ] |
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Sorry, I should have typed "FM" for Federal Mogul. F-M is Fairbanks-Morse. ![]() |
Author: | james longhurst [ Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:19 am ] |
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mag- for quite some time Federal Mogul had been lovingly referred to as "F@#%ing Mongrel" by both auto techs and parts couterpeople alike. despite the obvious insult to fine mongrels the world over! -james |
Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Jul 06, 2005 7:02 am ] |
Post subject: | So which are they?!?!? |
Quote: I picked up a set from Firm Feel
Andy-I notice firm feel carries both the 11/16" and 3/4" set. Which did you use and how do you like them? (Yeah these are on my Xmas list along with a few other things this year...) ![]() -D.Idiot |
Author: | andyf [ Wed Jul 06, 2005 2:48 pm ] |
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DI - I have the C body 11/16 tie rod ends. The 3/4 stuff looks like special NASCAR ends or something. |
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