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Ball and Trunnion/Pot Joint Boot Replacement
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12333		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  Dart270 [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 5:21 am ]
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I am in Sydney Australia visiting Cameron Tilley, Slant maniac and road racer. They do not have many 'shaft shops in Oz either. Costs him $500 for a steel driveshaft fab!! He'd never heard of conversion U-joints - crazy.

I've also never lived anywhere that didn't have one w/in an hour drive.

A good mail order source is Denny's Driveshafts in NJ. Made me an aluminum shaft with all new joints and slip yoke for $300 a couple of yrs ago. Balanced to 6000 RPM (for 5spd car).

Cheers,

Lou
Author:  killin5 [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 8:29 am ]
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I pulled my drive shaft last night and it looks like the joint is still good. So a replacement boot should do the job. I would order the part from Andy Berman, but I really want to get this fixed over the weekend. I took a look at several CV joint boots at Discount Auto. I wasn’t exactly sure what size I would need so I haven’t bought one yet. The main issue I see now is that I’m not sure if the material from the CV joint boot is flexible enough to fit over the pin at the end of the joint. They do have a split style where it is split down the middle and you slip it over and clamp it together. I would think that this would be the easiest, but am not sure if it would throw off the balance of the shaft and create vibration. Any thoughts here are appreciated.

Of course I didn’t measure the sizes of the ends last night so if anyone actually knows this, it would save me a trip home before I stop off at the parts store.

John
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 10:24 am ]
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I've seen several different attempts to make a CV boot fit. None of them was particularly satisfactory or long lasting. Just order the right boot and do the job right so you only have to do it just the once.
Author:  killin5 [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 1:40 pm ]
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Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 4:41 pm ]
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Yeah...there's really scarcely any reason to convert the front joint "just because". Parts are still available, and the ball-and-trunnion front U-joint does work well. If the shaft has to be modified anyhow (shortened, for instance) or if the ball and trunnion are completely worn out, then it's worth looking at converting.

I surely know what you mean about "spend a little more now or a lot more later", and I also know that feeling of impatience to get a job done while waiting for parts!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 5:40 pm ]
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Quote:
I am in Sydney Australia visiting Cameron Tilley, Slant maniac and road racer.
Cool! I remember reading about his blue '65 Barracuda years ago. The rules (Appendix-J, maybe?) called for stock brakes, so he custom-made some new 9" drums out of Meonite or another extremely dense iron.

What's he working on nowtimes?
Author:  Chuck [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 6:06 pm ]
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I needed a boot for a B&T shaft and used a CV joint boot, Moog #CV4482. I cut about 3" off the front and used the rear section. After cutting it off, the boot will be symmetrical and about 4" long if I recall correctly. Price was about $10.00.

I hace had several shafts converted and the last one cost me $220 with balance and 2 new u-joints.

BTW, you might want to enter the info you have on those replacement boots in the parts database under "B&T boot".
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Mar 25, 2005 6:11 pm ]
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Will do!
Author:  JamesM007 [ Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:27 am ]
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Quote:
He also has the complete front U-joint rebuild kit (which includes the boot and clamp kit), Q112, $75. Website is http://www.oldmoparts.com .
I tried to get a rebuild kit for my '64 ply /6 225 with a904 trans today and Bernbaum does not have any for '64 in stock. They say '62 won't work so I guess there is a difference between '62 and '64?

The width of my B&T housing is like 3 5/8 inches in diameter.

My cross pin is thrashed. It looks like someone took it apart once and didn't put all of the small mini pin looking bearings back in and so a flat spot is the result.

I'd like top keep the B&T and just run a strap in case of failure.

Anyone have any idea where I might get a new rebuild kit for a '64?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:59 am ]
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'62 and '64 are the same for whatever body style you're working with (A-body, B-body, C-body, etc.). Bernbaum doesn't catalogue ANY parts for vehicles newer than '62, and does not like to be asked whether his parts will fit an application not in the catalogue. His specialty ends at '62.

If you're working on a '64 full-size Plymouth, tell him it's a '62 Plymouth.
If you're working on a '64 Valiant, tell him it's a '62 Valiant.
Author:  killin5 [ Mon Mar 28, 2005 12:49 pm ]
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Well the boot I ordered Friday afternoon from Andy Bernbaum arrived in the mail today. That was fast considering it was a holiday weekend and all.

So here is my next question, in the service manual it says to use Universal Joint Lubrication. Is there a modern equivalent of this or is this still sold at the parts stores.

John
Author:  killin5 [ Mon Mar 28, 2005 1:00 pm ]
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JamesM007,

You may want to try Roberts Motor Parts. They sell a rebuild kit as well. There is a reference to them earlier in this thread. They only list up to '62.

I would be curious to find out what Bernbaum says the difference is between the two years.

Good luck,

John
Author:  Guest [ Mon Mar 28, 2005 1:14 pm ]
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Rebuild kits for a '64 are not that hard to find. My transmission guy got one overnight from his usual Dallas supplier. Neutral safety switches are another matter.
Author:  JamesM007 [ Mon Mar 28, 2005 2:03 pm ]
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I was just told by roberts motor parts that they do not have the rebuild kit.

looks like it is bernbaum.
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Mon Mar 28, 2005 3:39 pm ]
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Neutral safety switches for the pushbutton trans, can be sourced from:
http://www.fatsco.com/
and Pat Blais Transmission at:
tflitepatty@verizon.net
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