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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sat May 07, 2005 4:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Vacuum advance units are still readily available through NAPA Echlin, Standard/Bluestreak, etc. The dealer is no longer a very useful parts source for a car as old as yours. I'm pretty sure reaming the jets will not solve your wide variation in idle speed. I'm starting to wonder about the condition of your charcoal cannister and its lines. What happens to engine idle speed if you disconnect the cannister purge line (not the bowl vent line) at the carb, and plug the fitting? Also, is there any kind of idle speed control device (vacuum pot or electrically-operated solenoid) on your variant of the 1945 carb? |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Sat May 07, 2005 6:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | back again... |
well, at one time i put the car in "reverse" w/brake on and pulled about every vacuum line (one at a time) i could find to see if there was a difference in rpm. then i would plug them and see if it would go up...nothing. i thought about buying a new canister being it's old and i noticed they were inexpensive. i will go out and try the vacuume lines again being i have done so much to the car since i did it. oh!, i almost forgot... i found the smallest drill bit i could find that would not go though the jet and reamed it. car started right up no problem, rpms dropped (same) like you thought, took it out for a ride and that so far has been the best performance enhancement project i have done to it yet! no flat spot and it actually pulls and shifts that i can feel!, much better response. but, thats all i dare to do for now, i want to read the plugs later and see where i'm at (they were lean). the canister has one line going from the carb to "purge", one from the canister to "fuel tank", and the one that says "carb bowl" is pluged. thanks! |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Sun May 08, 2005 11:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | still trying... |
well, my guess is you guys have run out of ideas. car runs great, rpms drop from 1400-800 when i put it in drive. today, i'm going to open up the vacuum amplifier (never opened one before). see how it works and if maybe it's clogged. then i start working on the bad job someone did on the wiring. i noticed that every time i get out of the car and as soon as my foot touches the ground i get static shock. is this normal? also, if you read my last reply, does the canister seem to be set up right? thanks. |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Sun May 08, 2005 3:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | fuseable link? |
i've been working on my electrical wiring as i stated in "other" in this forum. as i told you i am having a problem with my rpms dropping when i put it in "drive". well, i found a "fusible link" in the engine compartment by the firewall that is fried. it is about a #10 red wire that goes to the relay right next to the battery. i looked at the wiring diagram and i can't make it out. if this is to the "engine idle solenoid" then maybe this is where my problem lies. please help! thanks! |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Mon May 09, 2005 8:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | SlantSixDan: |
sorry, i just noticed that last question. the only pot on the carb. is for the choke. i was wondering about the canister and if it's set up right, the #10 red wire from the starter relay that has a burnt fuselink (doesn't seem to effect anything), and i having even seen an idle solenoid, where is that located? thanks. |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Mon May 09, 2005 11:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | hello... |
looks like you guys are as stumped as i am. |
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| Author: | Slant6Ram [ Mon May 09, 2005 12:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | How about? |
Now that you've got some of the lean conditions repaired, why don't you set the idle back down to a more correct level. Set it to 900 rpm, and see if it still stalls out when you put it into gear. Have you ever considered that there might be a problem with the transmission?(grabbing too hard) Is the fluid red or has it turned black? Just thinking out loud, since you seem to have stumped the experts. |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Tue May 10, 2005 1:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | work, work, work... |
sorry, it took me so long to get back with you Slant6Ram. anyway... nah! i figure if one of you guys could check out my car in person, you'd probably have it figured out, fixed, and me out of your hair in no time! but, you can't see it and all you have is me working on it. i just got kinda tired of talking to myself (last 5 posts) over the weekend. actually, i do exactly what you suggested (check for rpm's to drop) a lot...to no avail. this weekend as you probably saw, i was working mainly on the wiring. not my favorite, but the nice part is the car still runs! it doesn't hurt to pray a lot either... hey Slant, i looked at my manual and it shows my car as having a "engine idle solenoid". isn't that like a electric step up for my carb.? so where the heck is it?(missing link?) from what i gather, it's suppose to step up the idle when you turn on the a/c. i checked out my transmission fluid when i got her about 2 months ago and it looks fine, nice and red. just how would i be able to tell if the transmission is grabbing too hard? you guys talk a lot about these poor cars getting worked on by these young mechanics who don't understand old cars well, sad to say that is what it looks like my poor car has had to endure (not that i'm an answer to anybodies prayers). this "74" scamp is the newest car i have now, my oldest being a 1947 Studebaker champion. so when it comes to emissions, FORGET IT! sorry, i didn't mean to yell. yesterday, i took the vacuum amplifier apart and the foam filter crumbled in my hand and all the diaphrams looked streched out, so does it work? who knows. also, a red wire about size #10 that is connected to the starter relay had a fusable link that was fried, so i replaced it with a inline fuse. funny thing is i never figured out what the heck it goes to (i thought maybe the blower motor). i also found corrosion on a couple connectors to my light switch so i cleaned them up but half my instrument panel still has no lights. left side of the speedometer and all the gauges on the left side are dead and the reostate (sp?) doesn't work either. looks like if i replace the switch i'm gonna have to drill out the rivets. i also took the reman. carb. back today and got my money back. once the car warms up she runs real nice now. so she's worth the time and effort. anyway, thanks for your time and any advice you can give me! |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue May 10, 2005 6:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: just how would i be able to tell if the transmission is grabbing too hard?
There's no such a thing as the transmission "grabbing too hard" when put into gear. However, the torque converter may have an internal fault. Test its stall speed: Put a tachometer on the engine, firmly set the parking brake and chock all four wheels, place the car where there's LOTS of empty space in front of it, put your foot firmly on the brake pedal. Start the car and put it in "Drive". Press the accelerator and watch the tachometer, taking note of the speed the engine will not exceed. 1600 to 1900 rpm is a normal ballpark. If it is SIGNIFICANTLY lower than this, a torque converter fault is indicated.Do not prolong this test, do it quickly. Once you've done it, put the trans in "Neutral" and let the engine idle for a few minutes before shutting down. |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Tue May 10, 2005 8:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | oh..oh! |
the car has to be at about 1400 rpm's just so it won't stall. when i put it in drive it drops to about 750-800 rpm's and i've been leaving it in reverse while pulling vacuum lines. i hope i haven't hurt anything. i will try this today and let you know what i find. but, if i understand you right, then i already know it is pulling the car at 1400 rpm's. so why don't i have a idle solenoid? thanks. |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Tue May 10, 2005 11:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
sorry I didn't followed up. I'm not getting the reply mails so I don't know when somebody replies to any of the threads I'm participating. Is hard to follow up blind in the dark.... I'm thinking BIG vacuum leak, like the bottom of the intake cracked due to heat/cold. It happened to me. Why don't you hook up a vacuumeter and tell us what you find? Does your coil gets too hot? I don't know if you have EI or points... does the ecu gets abnormally hot? Your ignition wiring harness is healthy? I had one car that had an intermitent short in the dist wiring harness... drove me crazy till it blowed up. do you have your PCV connected? how bad is your blowby? with shot rings and poor compression you can have idling dialing issues. Try to A) replace your PCV valve and B)clog your PCV line and see if that cures the problem. If B, my friend, I vote for shot rings. Also, since you're there, remove your valvle cover and turn your engine in normal direction till you get #6 cyl intake rocker down. If your timing mark on the dampner ain't near the zero indicator in the tab, you're to check your timing chain and sprockets. |
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| Author: | 74SCAMP [ Wed May 11, 2005 1:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | hello, Argentina |
i'm glad to hear from you! i can't find any vacuum leak. i replaced the int./exh. gasket, manifolds looked good, replaced most vacuum lines (except to heater control), rebuilt carb. and reamed main jet (running too lean but i'm still getting same gas mileage), manual says i should have a "engine idle solenoid" but i can't find it. i put a new distributor, tuned it up to "tdc". i have a vacuum gauge, but where do i hook it up to?. i don't know if the coil is getting hot, but it's also new. i have electronic ign.. wiring harness is 31 years old. i took a cheapie alarm system out and it seemed to stabilize the amp meter a little. i still need to go buy a pvc valve. i checked "tdc" on the #1 cylinder when i put the distributor in and it seemed right. car runs good, idle smooth, but as you know the only complaint i have is i have to have it's rpm's so high. tomorrow i will check the transmission torque converter's stall speed. oh, all cylinders are about 120 lbs. compression. i opened the vacuum amplifier and it looks shot (diaphrams all stetched and the foam filter crumbled in my hands). thanks! |
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