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R. Wood
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2005 3:11 pm 
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What's your basic ignition timing?
I'm not sure - I had the mechanic who inspected it set the timing. But I want to do it and I need a timing gun. What features should I look for in a gun?

Btw, thx for explaining about the cannister - I didn't realize there were different versions, and mine does NOT have the small hose connected to vacuum advance
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SlantSixDan
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2005 3:19 pm 
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If your basic timing is retarded significantly, it will depress the idle speed to such an extent that you can't bring it back up to where it needs to be. Also check for a clogged PCV valve.
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Dennis Weaver
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2005 4:52 pm 
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If your basic timing is retarded significantly, it will depress the idle speed to such an extent that you can't bring it back up to where it needs to be. Also check for a clogged PCV valve.
Dan, I thought you agreed to stop the name calling! :roll: :lol: The children! The children!!!

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Batesy
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:27 am 
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I too have a BBS and a 75 Dart. I want to route my lines to the canister. I wanted to make sure I understood what Dan is saying.
So the larger line that runs to the PVC - T-that to the larger port on the canister.
The smaller line that runs to the distributor - T-that to the smaller port on the canister.
Right?
Ok, so I read your explanation on why this should be done. I read it several times and I still didn't quite make sense of it (sorry).
Here is what I am referring to:
Why the distirbutor vacuum advance line? There's vacuum in the distributor vacuum line only above idle, so the cannister purge valve only opens above idle. so only above idle are fuel vapors were only drawn off out of the cannister (through the large line teed into the PCV line) and burned. If that weren't the case, the fuel vapors would be drawn off during starting and idling, too—that's how it was in '70-'71—and hot starting and idling would be very poor.
Does this mean that if I T the lines to the canister that the vapors will not be drawn out during starting and idling? If so, how does that actually work? Aren't the vapors (or at least some) going to be in there anyway?
Again, sorry for not understanding.
Thanks
Quote:
Quote:
I talked to CarbsOnly again about the choke and emailed the guy some pictures and a description. Hopefully I'll hear back from them today.
They're pretty customer service oriented, and maybe the pictures will help. In the end, if they say "We're really not sure", offer to buy the kit for a '68-'69 Dodge with 225 and Carter BBS if they'll let you send it back if it doesn't fit.
Quote:
The cannister does have three lines to it, but one of them is for the connection to the gas tank. I think my problem is that I don't have a tee for the line to the PCV (there was a separate port for it on the 1945).
The puzzling part of your description is the 'one that tees into the vacuum advance line.' I don't see how that would connect to the cannister. Dan?
You're installing a carb without cannister provisions onto a car with a cannister, so you need to duplicate the function of the extra ports your carb doesn't have. To do so, you'll need to buy some tee (T) or wye (Y) connectors. One large one that'll let you tie into the large-diameter hose that runs from your PCV valve to your carburetor, and—if there is a small-diameter fitting anywhere on your cannister—one small one that'll let you tie into the small-diameter hose that runs from the carburetor body to the distributor vacuum advance.

Why the distirbutor vacuum advance line? There's vacuum in the distributor vacuum line only above idle, so the cannister purge valve only opens above idle. so only above idle are fuel vapors were only drawn off out of the cannister (through the large line teed into the PCV line) and burned. If that weren't the case, the fuel vapors would be drawn off during starting and idling, too—that's how it was in '70-'71—and hot starting and idling would be very poor.

Large tank vent line connected to the "TANK" port (middle)

Large carb bowl vent line connected to the "CARB" or "BOWL" port (outboard)

Large purge line connected to the "PURGE" port (inboard); the other end of this line tees into the PCV hose

Small purge valve trigger hose connects to the one and only small port on top of the cannister purge valve near the "PURGE" port; other end of this line tees into the vacuum advance hose -- if applicable.

Some cannisters (your '75 may be one of them) do not have the small-diameter line; they use a different kind of purge valve and the instructions for tying-in the vacuum advance line can in that case be disregarded.
Quote:
With the car warmed up, in neutral, the highest I could adjust it to was 650 rpm - and I had the screw bottomed out.
What's your basic ignition timing?
Quote:
I guess a longer screw in it's place would give me a greater range but it seems unlikely that I would have to do that.
If the screw in the carb's throttle lever is the correct one, no, you shouldn't have to. If, on the other hand, an incorrect screw made it into that lever at some point in the past...

If 650 rpm is what you can achieve, and the engine starts and runs reliably and idles well, don't worry about it too much.

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Batesy
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 11:58 am 
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Ok I went to an article I found on here that mentions this
http://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/evaporation-control.html

Image

So where does this get installed? I see where the hoses go but where does this actually mount?

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SlantSixDan
PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 12:19 pm 
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Carburetor bowl vent --> charcoal can "BOWL" or "CARB" port.
Fuel tank vent --> charcoal can "TANK" port

Charcoal can "PURGE" port --> purge valve's large nipples --> tee into PCV hose.

Purge valve's small nipple --> tee into distributor vacuum advance hose.

Make sure your carburetor and ignition timing are set correctly so that your vacuum advance hose has vacuum only above idle.

Quote:
the vapors will not be drawn out during starting and idling?
Correct. The vapors are drawn out at above-idle engine speeds when the extra fuel won't materially affect how well the engine runs. Otherwise it would cause hard starting (flooded) and rough idle/stalling.

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Batesy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 8:28 am 
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FYI Napa no longer has the purge valve NAPA Echlin #2-28011. They say it is no longer available from the manufacturer. Checked Ebay and..ouch..there is one but the seller wants $50. Ugh
Wait..I found this
http://www.autozone.com/emission-contro ... 68753_0_0/

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SlantSixDan
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 2:49 pm 
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Duralast = junk, don't buy. Get this instead.

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Batesy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 3:18 pm 
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Man, thank you Dan! Ordered.

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Batesy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 01, 2016 1:05 pm 
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Ok, I am hopefully going to do this modification to connect my lines to the canister this weekend. I have a couple more questions (sorry).
So, my Carter BBS doesn't have a bowl vent to hook a line up to (there is just a small vent coming right out of the top of the choke mouth). Is that just how they were designed? Or am I missing something? Here are some pics of my carb. I originally had the same problem as the original poster with my choke and the Carter BBS and the 75 manifold. I made a bracket for the spring to go on to.
Image
Image
I am using the air cleaner that was for the 1945. Any reason that won't work?

Finally, what would be your suggestion in putting in the T's and where to place the purge valve? Here is a pic of my lines currently. Should they T in somewhere over the manifold cover? Any thoughts on how to install it best would be appreciated.
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Batesy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:39 am 
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Bump

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SlantSixDan
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 1:53 pm 
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Quote:
my Carter BBS doesn't have a bowl vent
Correct, no external bowl vent on the '74 BBS.
Quote:
I made a bracket for the spring
I don't see a problem.
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I am using the air cleaner that was for the 1945.
Perfectly fine. Make sure the thermostatic air cleaner system is intact and working.
Quote:
Finally, what would be your suggestion in putting in the T's and where to place the purge valve?
Purge valve can go anywhere in the hose from the canister's "PURGE" port to the new tee in the PCV hose. The purge valve's small nipple gets a hose, the other end of which is tee'd into the vacuum advance hose. Pick your physical placements for neatness.

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