Slant Six Forum :: need help on bleeding correctly

You really do need to bleed the entire system.

Your "crack the fittings and pump the brakes til air stops coming out, then retighten the fittings" method does the same thing as bench bleeding, just with more potential for mess and paint damage. If you make ample use of shop rags, you can do it this way. But, those kits that have plastic fittings and hoses to run from the fittings back into the reservoir cost all of about $5 and make the job much less messy.

shop rags are less the $5 per bundle

your right leg is stonger then your right arm and chrysler was so considerate to provide a nice lever and fulcrum within the car so you can use your right leg to bleed the master cylinder.

Water and rust contamination is only a problem if you use DOT 3 fluid.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sun May 22, 2005 9:23 am ]
Post subject:	Repeating myselfi
You really do need to bleed the entire system.

Author:	exoJjL [ Sun May 22, 2005 9:25 am ]
Post subject:	i really do need to just bleed the entire system!
of course

Author:	exoJjL [ Sun May 22, 2005 9:42 am ]
Post subject:
only prob the dont have a 73' scamp listed for the speed bleeders!

Author:	slantvaliant [ Sun May 22, 2005 9:54 am ]
Post subject:
Sure, they do! Disc Front: 639590 Drum Front: 639530 Rear: 639530 per http://www.russellperformance.com/autom ... mestic.htm

Author:	K.Beard of TMC [ Wed Jun 08, 2005 8:54 am ]
Post subject:	bleed screws
I use the Russel bleed screws with t he check valve, but still ended up having to draft my wife to help me bleed the brakes anyway. I'd like to note that the teflon coating on the threads made they really stiff to turn at first; I suggest you work them in and out a few times before you actually bleed the brakes, or you may end up not having them closed all the way when you're done.

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Author:	kesteb [ Wed Jun 08, 2005 10:26 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Repeating myselfi
Quote: You really do need to bleed the entire system. No, not really. This is how I bleed brakes. On a single reservoir system you will need to bleed the whole system starting at the wheel cylinder farthest from the master cylinder. Which would be the left rear cylinder. On a dual reservoir system you only need to bleed the part of the system that lost the fluid. Once again starting from the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder. In this case it would be the left rear and the left front. When changing the master cylinder, there is no need to bench bleed it before installing it into the car. Remove the old cylinder and bolt in the new one. Tighten the hardlines so they are loose. Have your buddy pump the brake pedal. When air bubbles stop appearing at the fitings, tighten them rest of the way. There is no need to bleed the whole system. Now before Dan, et al, jump down my throat, I have been doing this for 30+ years. And, I have never had any problems with air bubbles in the system when I am done.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Thu Jun 09, 2005 6:21 am ]
Post subject:
Since this is such an important issue, I will jump on you, instead of Dan, but I will do it with soft shoes. Bench bleeding of the master cyl is important. If you do not do it, it is a crap shoot, of getting all the air out of the cyl. As for bleeding one half of a dual system, it would be either both rear brakes or both front brakes, not one front and one rear. Farthest cyl is on the right side.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Thu Jun 09, 2005 7:13 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Repeating myselfi
Kesteb- You're technically right that on a dual-master system you can usually get away with just bleeding the front or rear circuit (whichever one you've been working on), and get most of the air out of the system withoutt having to bleed the other half of the system, but there is a good reason for bleeding the whole system that have nothing to do with air bubbles: Brake fluid absorbs water and suspends dirt, rubber particles, rust particles and assorted other crud. By rights, the brake fluid ought to be flushed completely every 2 or 3 years. Scarcely anyone does this, but brake hydraulics last longer and work better with clean/dry fluid than with dirty/wet fluid. That being the case, as long as you've got the brake fluid and bleeder wrench and jar off the shelf, it seems silly to do the job only halfway. Your "crack the fittings and pump the brakes til air stops coming out, then retighten the fittings" method does the same thing as bench bleeding, just with more potential for mess and paint damage. If you make ample use of shop rags, you can do it this way. But, those kits that have plastic fittings and hoses to run from the fittings back into the reservoir cost all of about $5 and make the job much less messy.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Thu Jun 09, 2005 2:53 pm ]
Post subject:
Dan, you have such a way with words. Much better then me.

Author:	kesteb [ Thu Jun 09, 2005 10:26 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Repeating myselfi
Quote: Your "crack the fittings and pump the brakes til air stops coming out, then retighten the fittings" method does the same thing as bench bleeding, just with more potential for mess and paint damage. If you make ample use of shop rags, you can do it this way. But, those kits that have plastic fittings and hoses to run from the fittings back into the reservoir cost all of about $5 and make the job much less messy. True Dan, but shop rags are less the $5 per bundle, your right leg is stonger then your right arm and chrysler was so considerate to provide a nice lever and fulcrum within the car so you can use your right leg to bleed the master cylinder. Water and rust contamination is only a problem if you use DOT 3 fluid.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Fri Jun 10, 2005 9:18 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Repeating myselfi
Quote: shop rags are less the $5 per bundle Sure, but then there's the hassle of dealing with them once they're soaked in brake fluid. The easiest mess to clean up is the one that doesn't get made... Quote: your right leg is stonger then your right arm and chrysler was so considerate to provide a nice lever and fulcrum within the car so you can use your right leg to bleed the master cylinder. No debate there. I "bench bleed" my master cylinders on the car, using the aforementioned $5 fittings-and-tubes bench bleeding kit. Quote: Water and rust contamination is only a problem if you use DOT 3 fluid. FALSE. DOT-3, DOT-4 and DOT-5.1 are all hygroscopic (absorb water).

Author:	hitokage [ Fri Jun 10, 2005 5:20 pm ]
Post subject:
Adding on to what Dan said: Water and rust are also a problem with silicone brake fluid. Even though it doesn't absorb water, if it somehow gets in the system you'll still get rust. The only way to be sure the water is out is to bleed it out.

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