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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
Posts: 2378
Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
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NLM and I have had extensive offline discussions of what's going on with his trans. Adjusting the kickdown linkage length has no effect at all on his transmission's shifting behaviour: It short-shifts with flare-up between the gears and wil not kick down. That means the head of the kickdown valve has slipped out of the claw on the kickdown lever inside the trans, which sometimes happens when the kickdown linkage is disconnected for an engine or trans swap. He will have to drop the pan, loosen the valve body and reattach the lever to the valve.
...ah, see, because of the top-secret, high-level clandestine discussions the two of you have been having, no one else knew that! 8) :lol:

D/W

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 7:40 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1324
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
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...ah, see, because of the top-secret, high-level clandestine discussions the two of you have been having, no one else knew that! 8) :lol:

D/W
Want to join the club? I'll tell you the secret handshake to get you in...just PM me ;-)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 8:15 pm 
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This post will self-destruct in five seconds! :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2005 8:47 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1324
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Fizzle fizzle...


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 Post subject: UPDATE: Still need help
PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 7:03 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1324
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Ok guys, here's what I've done thus far:

1--found a problem with the throttle linkage hanging up on the air cleaner lid, preventing me from getting to full throttle.

2--Pulled the pan and found that if I push the kickdown rod all the way down, it presses the valve body plunger all but 1/4" of the way in. IE: there is a small nub sticking out when the lever has reached its mechanical limit while pressing down. This was reached when the kickdown rod was disconnected from the throttle.

3--Put it all back together, and still have the problem =(

The problem is: Fast shifts under low-to-medium throttle. 1-2 at about 15mph/1500rpm, and 2-3 at about 20-22mph/1500rpm. I am afraid to really hammer the throttle for fear of the hesitant shift and slamming into gear it was doing before. If I manually shift the car, all is good.

So a few more questions:

1--should the valve body plunger be pressed ALL the way in to the valve body to have the kickdown work properly?

2--My current rod is not quite long enough to push the valve body plunger in to that 1/4". Does anyone know of some fittings I could use on the ends of a a threaded rod to atleast experiment with lengthening the kickdown rod?

Any other thoughts are appreciated. I had originally started to drop the valve body with the thought that the plunger wasn't working correctly, but upon further inspection, it seemed like it was functioning ok (assuming 1/4" showing is "ok").

I'm in over my head again (as always) so I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks!

OH YEAH! And I thought I would be good and adjust my shifter cable to be sure its ok. I followed the FSM procedure, but wasn't sure about the instruction of pushing in the cable until it "just hits a detent" when in reverse. So I just made sure it was centered on the reverse switch button. Now, when you put it in neutral/park, the car remains in gear. To start it I have to run through the gears to get it into neutral. Does this mean the cable is too tight so it won't drop into neutral?

Any help there is also appreciated. God I love this ;-)

MJ


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