The tire manufacturers all list rim sizes 4-1/2 to 7" for a 195 tire, so there should be no problem with that.

One of the reason I want the narrower profile tire is that I want a better ride than a a 60 series gives. The second is the desire to keep the diameter close to the original 13" for the visual as well as not wanting to change speedometer gears. The third reason is I want to maintain a somewhat stock look by using narrow white walls and they are not available in a 205 series with a 15" rim, but the main reason is I really don't like the looks of a 60 series on old, non-performance cars.

Ok........... thought 6.5 was max for a 195.

But just so you know, a 205/60 15 (24.69") is closer in diameter to a 185/80 13 (24.65") than a 195/65 15 (24.98") is.... (which is one of the reasons I asked the question...)


BTW, the original 6.50 13 is 24.6"......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I have the TSMMFG discs on my 64 Dart road course giant killer. They work very well, and made more diff than I thought over the 10X1.75 drums I pulled off. Biggest problem with drums is that they self energize. If you are hard on the brakes from 80+, the rears lock when you get down to around 30 and you have to pump it. Brakes are easier to modulate with 4 whl discs too.

Should be $500 or so for the whole kit w/p-brakes. I didn't bother with those on mine. I'll never go back.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Since I didn't see this answered yet - you can pull the drum brakes off any 8 3/4" (from '65 and later) or an 8 1/4", and put them on your rear. Just remember what you got them off of so you can get shoes, drums, and wheel cylinders when you need them.

Steve G.

Not necessarily. A body brakes have different spacing on the backing plates than B,C,E, or truck brakes. If the new axles are made for A body brakes anything else will not work. 4-1/2" axles are usually spced for B/E style brakes unless you specify the A style.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

That's interesting information because just about everything I've seen in regards to upgrading an a-body 8 3/4" to big bolt pattern says that's what you do. I wouldn't think they would make the big bolt axles specifically for a-body brakes - since that would limit you to either drilling your drums, or getting brakes from an 8 1/4" a-body rear which was only available for about three years.

Steve G.

I ordered the SSBC Stainless Steel Brakes Corp. rear disc kit #A-155 and it is a very nice, easy setup. They include everything you need in the kit from the adj proportioning valve, axle brake lines, back to the studs. The calipers are from 1988 Ford Thunderbird Turbo/SC (the downside -Ford) which is easy to find pads for, the rotors you'd have to get from SSBC. The calipers have the the parking brake lever and adj piston which is nice. The best part is, they look damn sweet. Overkill, I would say yes?, but I had to find something to complement the 11.75" & Viper calipers on the front.
----> About those Green Bearings, I've heard they're more heavy duty for drag racing straight lines (and to do away with the axle endplay adjustment) but the Tapered bearings are known for better handling of lateral forces which is better for cornering. But then again, new cars use the roller bearings on the front of FWD cars, so who really knows

ps Those SSBC kits only cost $750 thru Summit

The tapered rollers are better for durability in any situation, but the balls are probably fine, especially since all Ford 9" and 8" rears use them and I haven't heard of complaints on those.

The reason people use them is to get rid of the adjusters/end play.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988