I thought kiesler was selling a bolton adapter plate for the bellhousings they weren't reproducing?

I talked to Keisler at the Nats and they said they would not do a Slant/T5 plate. They have patterns for a Slant/TKO or TR3550. I figure they would do a T5 plate if I gave them a big order. Who knows if the sales dude was up to date.

Here are some links with info on my and other people's T5 and other 5 speed/OD swaps.

http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum16/HTML/002377.html

http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum16/HTML/003943-2.html

http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum16/HTML/004266.html

http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum16/HTML/005481.html

http://www.slantsix.com/UBB/Forum16/HTML/005951.html

Hope this helps,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I wrote this little piece when I first put the RAP 5 speed box in my car (July 2000) Once my kids were adults and had finished blowing things up I had few problems with the setup. Other than a change in the clutch disc (now uses Tbird Turbo coupe disc) little has changed. The car is still a joy to shift. A large increase in torque hasnt seemed to be a threat to durability,,,,although I do burnouts by dumping the clutch while the car is rolling at 5mph. This trans is a nice torque handling match for a 7.25 rear.
I probably have 60,000 miles o this swap.


I used a "RAP" trans from an 82 Mustang 2.3L. My car had a stock aluminum bellhousing which I used as well as the stock clutch arm and throwout bearing.A stock Volare wagon driveshaft adapted to the stock Mustang slipjoint with a combination u-joint(NAPA).I used a clutch disc ( 9 1\4") from a Ford ranger and the stock Valiant pressure plate.I had the input bearing retainer machined down to fit the Valiant throwoutbearing and the bellhousing register(big hole the trans fits into)I had to do a little grinding inside the bellhousing to allow the holes to be drilled for the trans bolts(Mustang bolts through bellhousing into trans)I used Mustang bolts and then "clamped" trans to bellhousing using the stock Valiant bolt holes,total 8 bolts!,,,pretty ridgid. The tricky part was extending the trans input shaft to mimic the Valiant one,,I had an extension machined and then shrunk it onto the Mustang input shaft(heat extension,,,cool input shaft) we used some high temp Loctite to make us feel better. It is a little tricky getting the trans/bellhousing combo into the car,,,but it all fits nicely,,,my car was a 3spd originally so the trans hump is pretty small.I had to modify the trans mount and add my own "cushion mount".
You get 2 more gears,,,,1 lower than stock and 1 (OD) higher, the low gear is really low,,,with a stock super6 i can idle up a good grade in 1st,,,and do one hella burnout even with 235/60 14 BFGs. With 3,23 gears shift points are 20mph 40mph 60 mph 75 mph.
I used a Hurst shifter handle and "T" knob just for fun,,shifter ends up in the perfect spot.
Be warned RAP is a light duty box, however it weighs 15 lbs LESS than the stock 3spd.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Lou- I'd be interested, but have no core!

Thanks for the interest, Imnoisydart. Keep your eyes on ebay or parts listings for a BH core. Otherwise, it looks like Mr. Rock has a couple of extras.

Sounds like we have 7 people interested, plus two for me. 9 BHs ought to be a good run volume for a machine shop. 3 people do not have cores, but Rock has two extras he can sell, so we are short one.

I'll start to make some calls in the next couple of weeks and see what we can swing.

Thanks again,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I picked up a BH via e-bay over the weekend, price was ok shipping was the killer. The issue I am having is the seller isnt sure which fork goes with it, I am suppose to be getting a photo of the different forks he has but I guess the question becomes will the fork matter if I use this bellhousing as a core for the T-5?

Brian

The fork might matter depending on what clutch setup you want to run. I believe I have an extra fork that I will not use. I put a hydraulic TOB on my 64 and I'll never go back to a mech linkage...

If his forks he has are all for a Slant, the bigger ones with a round hole on the small end should be the right one. The early 3spd forks are shorter and may not even stick out of the BH side hole? Don't remember if the pivot bolt pattern is different, but I bet not.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi Lou and all,

I offer the following comments re. cast aluminium BH's on the 833OD with the 5 1/8 input bearing retainer.

One BH has an internal pivot designed with a slot in it. The fork for that pivot has a point on the end of the spring steel tab on the underside of the fork. The point slides into the slit on the pivot, effecting the connection. Also, this pivot has two bolts that hold it in place. The fork also bends upward slightly at the end where it gets pushed. Unfortunately this pivot cannot readily be transferred to the other BH with the other kind of pivot and the fork is slightly smaller than the one for the other BH.

This other BH appears to me to be a slightly rougher casting and I choose to port it for appearance sake. It has a single ball pivot that screws into the BH, and its proper fork has a spring steel catchment on its underside, but unlike the one previously described, has a U-shaped end so that it can be pressed onto to the ball stem on the ball pivot. This fork does not bend slightly upward and is larger than the first.

I had tried switching catchments by grinding off rivets, swapping, and re-riviting afterwards, but the size difference in forks plus the slight upward tilt of the smaller fork made that swap not work, even though by doing the catchment swap I could get the forks to interchange at the pivot. (I did this to see if I could do it.)

rock
'64 d100

Rock,

Thanks for posting that, I saw it in the reply to the thread I had started and hopefully this will help someone else as well. I am hoping that by getting photos of the forks he has and from the description you provided I can figure out which fork is the right one. Guessing from your desciption but without seeing the inside of the BH, I think the bellhousing is the first one you described. This sounds like the same fork setup that my current 3 speed bh has.

I am still trying to decide what I will do for a clutch, but I am trying to track down the fork to can keep all my options open.

Brian

Lou. Count me in. I have the bell. The sooner the better for me. Once I know the cost I might just get two, if I can find another bell.

Here are the people who have expressed strong interest:

Bohmer2
Thropar
rock
mcnoople
gmader
Mike Andreas
mcm75403
65Dartman
Imnoisydart
Slant6rat (2?)

This makes 12-13 including me. I will start making calls and see what we can swing. If you haven't done so already, look through the links I posted above to see what parts/fabrication you'll need for this swap. It is not a trivial "bolt in" so make sure you know what you're getting into.

I am willing to have you all ship the BHs to me, I can send/carry them to the machine shop, then inspect them before sending back.

Probably a good idea to get crank hub/pilot bearing sleeves made for everyone too and I'll price those.

IIRC, Dartvader used an in-stock Keisler lower X-member for his T5 swap, so I'll ask about those too.

Thanks again,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I needed to bone up on Ford T-5's and found some history on them that someone doing this swap might find useful. Here it is: http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technica ... istory.htm

Heres a spec page for them too along with part numbers: http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technica ... n_spec.htm

more: http://www.mustanggt.org/gttranny.htm

I have a T-5 out of a early 90's 5.0 Mustang, anybody know what'll need to be cut to make it fit? I'm worried about the T-bar X member.

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70 Dart, 360, 727

See links slantsix.com above for full story. You will have to cut through the upper (Tbar) X-member completely for at least a 2-3" section right above the trans centerline to accomodate the shifter rail. As I said, this takes some fab work. I built a new X-member out of 1X2" box tubing and some 13gauge (0.100") plate.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That doesn't make any sense. Are they saying the don''t have a plate to mount a T5 to the bellhousing, or are they saying that there is something special about a plate for a \6 bellhousing?

A plate that would fit the V8 housings will bolt onto the \6 bellhousing. There is nothing special about how the standard transmission bolts on and they all have the same input shaft length.

The best Ford T5 for our slants is one from the V6. Same strength as the V8 and a longer input shaft. The longer input shaft is important, as this one will be really close to the end of the crankshaft.