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starter size problem with my dual Dutra duals
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16088		 Page 2 of 2
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Feb 15, 2006 8:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Psst...how 'bout changing the way the rear half of the stock exhaust manifold is reworked by chopping and capping-off the top of the centre stack, so the top of the rear-3 casting doesn't have to bolt to anything, freeing you up to use whatever unheated intake you want to use, and keeping the stock headpipe flange location for the rear-3 headpipe?
Author:  Patrick Devlin [ Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Did that but don't like it.
Quote:
Psst...how 'bout changing the way the rear half of the stock exhaust manifold is reworked by chopping and capping-off the top of the centre stack, so the top of the rear-3 casting doesn't have to bolt to anything, freeing you up to use whatever unheated intake you want to use, and keeping the stock headpipe flange location for the rear-3 headpipe?
It's a good suggestion...great minds think alike. :D
That's what I did a couple of years ago so I could fit my Clifford manifold, but I've had periodic problems with the welds not holding up around this top plate(getting pin hole exhaust leaks) and I'm tired of rewelding it. Plus, it looks ugly. I'm trying to un-rig-together my car from years of daily driving and fixing things just to make them work.

I have had welds on cast iron hold up, and the welds on the "chopped off front branch" have held up, but with this top plate there always seem to be cracks and holes developing over time. Just pin-sized, mind you. I think the cause is expansion and contraction of this large steel plate section (relative to the iron manifold) putting stress on the welds. I know the coefficients of expansion for cast iron and steel are very close, though. Bad welds afterall? Maybe I just want to give Doug more money. :wink: Who knows...sorry for the ramble...bed time.
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Wed Feb 15, 2006 9:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes, capping off the heat opening is another way to do it, it does look unsightly but it is in a place that is hard to see.
DD
http://www.dutra.org/pictures/engine/pa ... p-side.jpg
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:54 am ]
Post subject: 
Interesting photo...what's the deal with the half-manifold at the top centre of that photo? Why is there a round hole in one of the runners?
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 8:39 am ]
Post subject:  Early Choke pocket?
Quote:
Interesting photo...what's the deal with the half-manifold at the top centre of that photo? Why is there a round hole in one of the runners?
Early style choke pocket?
Author:  dart64rg [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:48 am ]
Post subject:  New Powermaster Starter
Check out this new clockable mini starter I just came across at Manciniracing.com. It is a Powermaster clockable mini starter. It has what looks to be about 30 Degrees of rotation built into the starter for positional adjustment.

I wonder if this would solve your(and others) clearance issues.

Also I wonder if this starter would solve clearance issues in regards to running Dual Dutra Duals on a 170. (I want to do a twin turbo 170 so bad.)
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 11:27 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Early Choke pocket?
Quote:
Quote:
Interesting photo...what's the deal with the half-manifold at the top centre of that photo? Why is there a round hole in one of the runners?
Early style choke pocket?
Oh, yeah, I see it now; it's actually a '70-'72 "open stove" type choke provision. The angle was screwing with my perspective.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 11:28 am ]
Post subject:  Re: New Powermaster Starter
Quote:
Check out this new clockable mini starter I just came across at Manciniracing.com. It is a Powermaster clockable mini starter. It has what looks to be about 30 Degrees of rotation built into the starter for positional adjustment.
My way (replace the starter terminal extensions) is about $279 less expensive.
Author:  dart64rg [ Thu Feb 16, 2006 12:10 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: New Powermaster Starter
Quote:
My way (replace the starter terminal extensions) is about $279 less expensive.
I realize that, but this new starter might open up new options that your connector options might not. Like DDD on a 170 (with twin turbos?, from the looks of things on the 225 pictures I see with dual Dutras that a twin turbo 170 looks unlikely on the DDD setup, unless a truck bellhousing with the low starter was used instead of the standard car bellhousing). I was just getting some new information out to the masses (assuming it is new since I had never heard or seen it before).
Author:  Flyntgr [ Fri Feb 17, 2006 8:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Success with exhaust on dual Dutra duals
I started this thread when my mechanic kept worrying that there wouldn't be room to put the exhaust pipe on the rear manifold. But my muffler man took the photos Doug sent me, bent upward on the exhaust pipe and easily cleared the mini starter from an '89 MoPar engine. In fact the heat shield might not be needed, but in view of the hyperpak strength of this engine, I'm going to err on the side of caution. The Dutra Duals are ceramic coated to look like chrome, and they are going to work very well with the mini starter, with good clearance for a 2 1/4 inch true dual exhaust, front to rear, with an X-pipe just aft of the frame crossover where the trans. bracket is installed just behind the trans. tail shaft. I would recommend these cast iron manifolds due to their strength and permanence. And they look great!
Author:  Ed Mullen [ Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:11 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
For the RWD 3.9/5.2/5.9 starter:
------------------------------------------
Terminal block, includes B+ and S+ extensions: 76-82568
Cover, motor housing B & S terminals: 72-82100
Should I expect my wife's 70 Valiant's original starter cable to fit the referenced terminal block?

I just used the posts that came on the junkyard Denso in my van and attached new crimp terminals to the old cable. (Bastard pre-cat had already cooked original terminal beyond usefullness.)

I'd like to have a neater installation in the wife's car (which still has original cable intact).

I was going to make an adapter until I saw this thread.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for sharing this Dan!!


Really useful Post!


Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:03 am ]
Post subject: 
I think this should be in the electrical section as part of the FAQ sticky!


Greg
Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:25 am ]
Post subject:  ministarter
Just for clarification, Dan, the mini-starter from the later model Chryslers does clear the hyperpaks, right? I think that was in the hyperpak thread.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=21

That clockable one's price, though high, seems lower than I've seen elsewhere, usually in the $400+ range if they have adjustable mounts.


Thanks,

Brian
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:01 am ]
Post subject:  Re: ministarter
Quote:
Just for clarification, Dan, the mini-starter from the later model Chryslers does clear the hyperpaks, right?
Yes, with the Hyper Pak rear exhaust or DDD you want the starter for the '05-'08 Dodge Ram Hemi w/manual transmission, as described here.
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