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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 11:36 pm 
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Just curious - what are you trying to do, that you need liquid radiator flux and electronic or plumbing flux will not do? Are you putting an entire radiator together from scratch?

If shops really buy it in such a large quantity I bet you can take a pint or quart down to some place near you and have them fill it up for a few bucks.

For the sake of discussion - yes you can wash circuit boards. If you socket all static sensitive components, you can remove them then have at it - alcohol, thinner, etc and a brush. Otherwise if you want to leave the sensitive components in, they do make aerosol spray similar to brake cleaner that evaporates as it runs off but that doesn't work nearly as well. I didn't think a simple rinse would get rid of residue and corrosion in a radiator, as solder residue on a circuit board takes some work to chip way. Ultimately perhaps it does just depend on the flux itself, I've even seen some stuff labeld as water soluble.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:12 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
..........For the sake of discussion - yes you can wash circuit boards. ..........

True, I was thinking more of the quick fix where you're not going to take everything apart.............. just the solder fix then you're done.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:06 pm 
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Just curious - what are you trying to do, that you need liquid radiator flux and electronic or plumbing flux will not do?
It's what I DON'T want to do. I don't want to smear some half cocked junk on it and screw up the job on the first try. Second attempts are notoriously useless. IF I attempt it I want the best I can get my hands on and hope to get it right in one lick.
Quote:
Are you putting an entire radiator together from scratch?
Cute.
Quote:
If shops really buy it in such a large quantity I bet you can take a pint or quart down to some place near you and have them fill it up for a few bucks.
I've thought of that. Can't hurt to try if I get that far away with it spurting water all over.
Quote:
I didn't think a simple rinse would get rid of residue and corrosion in a radiator, as solder residue on a circuit board takes some work to chip way.
Excellent reason not to use a krud generating paste. The thin stuff I've seen them use leaves nothing to chip. Which is why I came up with this ludicrous idea of getting special flux on the first place.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:59 pm 
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Napa sells a liquid soldering flux by the pint,I have some at the shop,I used it to lead the sides of a custom motorcycle tank I built last fall.
It works great but I forgot to get the pt.no. off of the bottle today,I will get it tomorrow. It is corrosive but neutralizes easily with baking soda and water paste applied with a toothbrush(it is advised that the toothbrush not be used to brush your teeth after this procedure :lol: :lol: ).
The flux works well on radiator tanks as I repaired the tank in wifes former daily driver with and it is still holding with the current owner,IIRC,it was about $7.50 a bottle.
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 :-) )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 11:10 pm 
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It was a geniune question it wasn't meant to be cute or smart. It just seems like your going the distance to get the right stuff. If thats your wish then fine by all means - but for a small repair it seems like overkill.

If plumbing flux at the hardware store works on copper pipes that cary crappy city water, I'm sure it will do fine on your radiator that uses distilled/filterd water with the corrosion protection in antifreeze.

I highly doubt the differnece in flux types is going to mean the differnece between a successful or failed repair, as long as you use one type or the other.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:24 am 
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Quote:
(it is advised that the toothbrush not be used to brush your teeth after this procedure :lol: :lol: ).
I'll see if I can remember that. ;-)
Quote:
The flux works well on radiator tanks as I repaired the tank in wifes former daily driver with and it is still holding with the current owner,IIRC,it was about $7.50 a bottle.
HyperValiant
NAPA. It's been years since I went in there. Almost forgot they existed. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 8:45 pm 
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Luthastro,I apolagize but I forgot to get the pt.no. today but I did read the bottle and it says that it works well on brass and copper and requires no precleaning unless the part is oily or greasy.I usually scrub the parts I solder with a stainless brush first.
HyperValiant

_________________
1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 :-) )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress


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 Post subject: Flux
PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:14 am 
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Any welding supply will have a selection. I like this,
http://www.jwharris.com/images/pdf2/SCLF.pdf
Has a variety of uses. It is acidic, read and follow directions and you will be OK.

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Ross Rither
1964 Dart, 170
225, super six.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2006 11:46 am
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Quote:
Luthastro,I apolagize but I forgot to get the pt.no. today but I did read the bottle and it says that it works well on brass and copper and requires no precleaning unless the part is oily or greasy.I usually scrub the parts I solder with a stainless brush first.
HyperValiant
No sweat, I really appreciate your help. I don't know how much I can get a stainless brush to it, but a little lacquer thinner should get rid of any grease or oil.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Flux
PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:25 am 
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Quote:
Any welding supply will have a selection. I like this,
http://www.jwharris.com/images/pdf2/SCLF.pdf
Has a variety of uses. It is acidic, read and follow directions and you will be OK.
Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:31 am
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Location: Addison Illinois
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Please remember gentleman to use the right composition solder also 30/70 works best on our radiators and don't go over 50/50. Don't use any lead free solders as they will no wet out on the brass. I believe the flux the shops use is called "cut" acid and that is achevieved by adding small pieces of galvinized metal to muriatic acid thus forming zinc chloride.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2006 11:46 am
Posts: 121
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Quote:
30/70 works best on our radiators... Don't use any lead free solders as they will no wet out on the brass.
Glad to know that. Thanks
Quote:
I believe the flux the shops use is called "cut" acid and that is achevieved by adding small pieces of galvinized metal to muriatic acid thus forming zinc chloride.
Yeah, that's what my dad made when I was a kid. He used strips from zinc canning jar lids they had back then. Maybe still do, but I haven't seen much canning, let alone zinc lids.

Thanks.


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