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Advice needed several ?'s
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17540		 Page 2 of 3
Author:  emsvitil [ Sun May 14, 2006 11:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hmmmm...
Quote:
Quote:
I don't remember the size of the allen wrench that fits, but if you're you can dial out some of the advance.

I think it's 3/32"... One thing to note, on the cans that I've recently gotten if you "dial" them it changes when they come in but also it modifies how much advance you get out of it...the last one I "adjusted" came in a bit too late, after dialing it in, it came in just right, but instead of getting the 20 degrees of adv. I wanted, I only get 17.... (not sure if the extra 2-4 degrees would make any more mpg on I-5...)


Good luck,

-D.Idiot

That's weird........

unless you can't produce enough vacuum to get the 20.

The screw adjustment shifts the can's range. If vacuum started at 5in and maxed out at 10in, when you adjust the screw, the 5 inch spread stays. So if you get it to start at 10in, it would max out at 15in.
Author:  CrAlt [ Mon May 15, 2006 12:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Advice needed several ?'s
Quote:
So last night on the way home I stopped at Harbor Freight and picked up a dial timing light. I have been having a timing issue for quite a while. it turns out that the vacuum advance pod on my distributer is always advancing the timing. I set it to 0* reved it to 2000rpm and I was getting 50* :shock: , disconnected I was getting 25* so I guess I have 2 options
1. I can just set it to 4* initial and disconnect the vac advance for racing and get another distributer later OR
2. see if anyone has an idea of how to get the distributer to give me less mechanical advance so I can give myself more inital advance.
I am going to be racing one week from today.
I also spent a couple hours inside my Holley last night. it was surprizingly clean. I wasnt really looking to rebuild I just wanted to replace the gaskets, bowl gaskets and the gaskets around the secondary metering block. I found out I have 57 jets. I had a small leak somewhere that is now gone. I also got the secondary spring quick change kit. I have a lot of pump cams I have to figure out which one I need.
Now today I am going to replace the idler arm and all 4 tie rods. Wednesday it goes in for an alignment.
Wow..with numbers like that I would wonder about that light...

I had 2 analog "dial" lights of 2 diff makes that where both WAY off at anything above 10deg. I ended up getting a actron digital timing light...Its spot on (compared with a friends $NAPON light) and not all that costly. They are under 90bux now and also read RPMs.
Author:  70valiant [ Mon May 15, 2006 4:45 am ]
Post subject: 
To set the can to advance at higher vacuum you turn it clockwise right? mine is maxed clockwise. I really need a vacuum tester. I dont know how much vacuum I am generating or what it takes to work the advance canister.
I think the timing light is accurate. As I understand it slants like around 28-29* under WOT, if I am really getting 25* mechanical and I had the inital at 8* giving me 33* total, it should ping set like that. now the way I have it timed (4* inital and 25* mechanical) it no longer pings.
the orange cam seems to have helped the off idle bog. I may have trouble doing anymore tuning this week. They are calling fo rain all week.
Author:  emsvitil [ Mon May 15, 2006 4:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
To set the can to advance at higher vacuum you turn it clockwise right? mine is maxed clockwise.

Actually it the opposite. clockwise lowers the vacuum (loosens the internal spring) and counterclockwse ups the vacuum.
Author:  Slant6Ram [ Mon May 15, 2006 7:35 am ]
Post subject:  Fun with curves.
Quote:
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Did they make 12R goveners?


It's possible, I have a 13R unit
I have seen several 11R units so they must be common. You may be reading 1* of error.

I wouldn't plan on putting super heavy springs into a distributor with too much governor because it throws the advance way up into the rpm range. A better idea is to limit the gov and keep the light springs.

It sounds like you'll be able to go even faster once you get the gears and the carb all done. We all want to you give a good showing out east, keep up the good work.

Please PM me your address and I'll make you up a care package! I've been super busy at work lately, so I'll try to get it out quick before I forget.
Author:  70valiant [ Mon May 15, 2006 9:16 am ]
Post subject: 
D'oh, I went the wrong direction. Ok when I get home I'll go back out and turn it the other way and see if I can get the vacuum advance working properly.
Thanks Paul, you da man!
Author:  Slant6Ram [ Mon May 15, 2006 10:22 am ]
Post subject:  Once the money tree gets growing
Quote:
I really need a vacuum tester. I dont know how much vacuum I am generating or what it takes to work the advance canister.
We've all got a list of stuff we need, but I finally broke down and bought one due to all the questions I still had about distributor curves. Good tools are worth their weight in gold.

I bought a nice big gauge instead of the tiny one that comes attached to the vacuum pump. The gauge came with a necessary 'T' fitting and just a few feet of hose. I still don't have a pump, but I can pull enough vacuum with my mouth for simple testing purposes.:oops: (trying to duck "suck" comments) The only other item I needed was about 10' of plastic tubing (like the kind used in a refidgerator ice maker install kit) so I could route a line into cab for live testing.
Author:  70valiant [ Mon May 15, 2006 11:26 am ]
Post subject: 
I totally agree with the tools comment. I spent $7 on a small ball joint/tie rod separator. I'll never use a pickle fork again.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Tue May 16, 2006 9:31 am ]
Post subject:  Nope...
Quote:
That's weird........

unless you can't produce enough vacuum to get the 20.

The screw adjustment shifts the can's range. If vacuum started at 5in and maxed out at 10in, when you adjust the screw, the 5 inch spread stays. So if you get it to start at 10in, it would max out at 15in.


This was done with a hand vacc. pump while testing on a running engine, then I checked it out of the engine and the screw also changes how much the arm throws for some reason. Have tryed this with an OEM Chrysler can and it does just like it should, did it with a no-name brand Remanf can and it did like the OEM can (but could only dial in about 1" Hg either side).


???

-D.Idiot
Author:  KBB_of_TMC [ Tue May 16, 2006 9:46 am ]
Post subject:  vacuum advance
FYI: Most (not just hi-po) Mopar vacuum advances are adjustable with an Allen wrench through the vacuum port; you can change the d(timing)/d(vacuum) slope. See the MP electronic ignition conversion instructions for details.
Author:  70valiant [ Fri May 19, 2006 4:58 am ]
Post subject: 
I stated earier that I have a reman distributer. Well I now know why I didn't like that thing. I took it apart last night and found it has a 15r governor :shock: I have to pull the one I am running to swap in a spring then I can reassemble and go from there. the advance pot on the reman dosen't have any indication of what it is. Slant6Ram sent me a 9r governor and an 11R vacuum pot that I am going to use that should allow me to set my inital at around 10-12*.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri May 19, 2006 9:14 am ]
Post subject:  Excellent!
Quote:
I took it apart last night and found it has a 15r governor I have to pull the one I am running to swap in a spring then I can reassemble and go from there. the advance pot on the reman dosen't have any indication of what it is. Slant6Ram sent me a 9r governor and an 11R vacuum pot that I am going to use that should allow me to set my inital at around 10-12*.

:D

Sounds like a good setup, the reman can, usually is a 20 degree crank adv. and it comes in somewhere at about 6-10 and is all in about 16-18" Hg...They are 'OK' for a mileage motor.

Get that governor swapped and let us know how it works out!

-D.Idiot
Author:  70valiant [ Fri May 19, 2006 6:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well it is all ready to go except running it through the car wash in the morning. We are going to try and tune it a bit during time trials. the inital is set to 10* and we have a total of 30* it pulls hard to 48-4900rpm(I always use to shift at 42-4300, I think the timing was limiting my top end before). I was really worried because I was using the little bolts that hold the pulley that drives the power steering pump to turn the engine to TDC for swapping distributers and snapped 2 of them off. I didn't realise I snapped the first one until the second one broke. we went and used larger ones on the other 3 holes. what a relief to not have to swap out balancers the night before the race.

Wish me luck I am representing us all out there
Author:  Slant6Ram [ Sat May 20, 2006 7:06 am ]
Post subject:  May the force be with you.
Go get 'em! :twisted:
Author:  Rust collector [ Sat May 20, 2006 9:06 am ]
Post subject: 
Have fun and spank em 8)
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