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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:24 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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It is very easy to install the 100/110 amp Nip. alternator on a slant. That is what I have on my street/strip Cuda. I have an electric fan/waterpump, twin electric FI fuel pumps and a nitrous bottle heater. Before the upgrade, I would have to charge my battery between rounds at the track. Now the battery is as happy as a Hurricane over Florida.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:55 am 
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If you install a high-output alternator like this, and you leave the stock wiring in place unmodified, and you ever draw heavily on it (giving or receiving a jump start, for example, or trying to charge a dead or dying battery) you will do serious damage to the A1A (main feed) circuit, the ammeter and possibly other dashboard wiring. You can run these high-amperage alternators, but it's safest to run a 6ga wire directly from the alternator's B+ (output) terminal to one end or the other of the battery positive cable. The dashboard ammeter will no longer register correctly, but you'll avoid the risk of damage.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 7:41 am 
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Dan is correct. I ran the heavy gauge "shunt" wire. In my case, I think I used 4 gauge.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:53 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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I installed a (horrors!) GM one wire alternator, and by passed the amp meter altogether with a direct to battery connection, through a fuse of course. Some day I will build a better bracket for the alternator. The GM alternator puts out better at low RPM's. I bent the bracket one out of sheet metal that bolts to the original. It works, and doesn;t look too bad, but it sets the alternator out even further than the stock, and that belt is already pretty long. Since you have no power steering pump, I would suggest putting a GM alternator down there where the PS pump would be. I think what would be really cool would be to gin up a serpentine belt for the alternator PS, and AC some how. That's a project for the future.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:23 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 1:54 am
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Location: Sweden Motala
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Quote:
I have an electric fan/waterpump
Charrlie_S
Where and how did you install that waterpump?

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Lasse
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Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:29 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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Good question!! I didn't notice you said electric water pump.
Details please.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 3:10 pm 
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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It is the Moroso electric fan and water pump drive kit. Uses a "heater" blower motor and a small cogged belt in place of the "V" belt to drive the water pump. I do not reccommed this setup for a "regular" street driver. It doesn't circulate the water very fast, and the electric motor has bushings, not bearings. These do not last very long with the side loading the belt drive puts on them. I can get away with it, because my Cuda is a mild 170, which doesn't generate a lot of heat on a easy cruise. It is also mainly a drag car, with just ocasional cruises to the shows. No real long drives. 100 miles or less.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:12 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 1:54 am
Posts: 181
Location: Sweden Motala
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Quote:
I can get away with it, because my Cuda is a mild 170,
Ok?
Thanks for the info.

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Lasse
Image
Signet -66 225
Holley 600 Offy-5270 Dutra Dual,regrind. cam 272 0,420 110, head shaved 0.100 slight.ported
MSD6A
A904
7 1/4 3.23


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:21 am
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I ve had a request for more pictures of the Classic Auto Air in it's modified state.
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images ... mRight.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images/ACcondenser.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images/ACdrier.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images ... ration.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images/ACleftRear.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images ... tFront.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images ... ngMark.JPG

PS the white zip tie in the condenser picture was removed.
I am surprized with the amount of oil around the balancer.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Thanks for the extra pics...I now have a better understanding of the compressor mount/drive setup Classic Air is selling.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 7:52 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 12:22 pm
Posts: 580
Location: Austin Texas
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Quote:
As delivered no. The kit is shipped with a pulley that has 2 groves in it. This pulley is added to the balancer with 3 bolts and a new crank bolt. This gives you three groves total. First grove (engine side) still runs water pump and alt. Middle grove runs power steering pump if you have one. (I don't) 3rd grove runs compressor with a B-size width belt. Note the picture - the belt runs in the 2nd grove of the compressor. This is as delivered. This is not: Since the compressor clutch was in the way of the fan, simply moving the belt back one wouldn't help. The compressor needed to be moved back also and run in the power steering grove.
It sure sounds to me like that if they'd bothered to offer the same compressor with the SINGLE groove pulley/clutch, everything would have fit perfectly with no modification at all. The single groove pulley would have been shorter, would have cleared the fan, and wouldn't have required moving the compressor to the rear at all.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:17 am 
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Gotta say I am not impressed with the engineering on the compressor mount/drive setup from Classic Air. They should've done it the way the factory did (aux drive pulley bolts to the rear of the vibration damper, and a double-sheave fan drive pulley is used). This puts the compressor's beltline aft of the crank pulley, not forward of it, which would eliminate all these fan/rad fit problems. I understand why they did it the way they did (cheaper to produce this way, because no double-groove fan pulley need be supplied) but I disagree with their decision.

I might use the Classic Air in-dash parts, but I would not accept their underhood stuff.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:21 am
Posts: 1614
Location: Orlando, FL
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Classic air really dropped the ball under the hood. In dash was great it could not have been better. Except for the instructions were a little vage. After reading them over and over again they started to make a little sence.

Under the hood was a perfect fit except the following areas:

Suction line (was for the V8 right side mounting)
Discharge line (same deal)
Compressor (type of drive. Single grove would be better)
Compressor mounting (might be OK if shorter compressor was used)
Crank pulley. (Fan would not clear last grove without fan spacer)

Averything else was very good. The things that were designed wrong were the things that are different between a V8 and a /6. Someone very talented designed the system for the V8s and an idiot took over for the /6 design.
I am still not happy with they way things turned out. The fan is very close to the radiator. Just did a brake job and I am afraid to really check them hard. I am thinking about chaining the engine back until I fix this issue which I believe I'll do it with a serpentine belt system. This is the long way around but when power steering is added later it will be the shorter fix.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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