There is one guy in Auzzy running a long rod turbo setup. It freely revs to 7000RPM with no problem and is very smooth. It diffenetly moves the turque curve up and with the better rod angle made it rev easier with less vibration. I think it would be a good combo myself. I even found some off the shelf rods that are 7.100 in lenth that are cheap enough to help offset the price of a custom piston. These rods are also a set of 8 which would give you two extra just in case. 4 people could go in and buy three sets & devide them up in sets of six and end up with less in them.


Here is the link.
http://www.campbellenterprises.com/part ... h7100aprba


You would have to turn the crank .007 and run a .020 Big block chevy bearing I believe I figured or get a set of bearings made at .013 under(which they will do). I would have to go back and refigure to be sure on that but they will work. And they are about .003 wider and "may need trimed alittle but it could work out to help if the slant crank needed to be corrected for rod side clearance.
But a custom set of long rods is high, of course if you have a set of 198s then your good but these would be a bit stronger if one wanted to take it that far. I priced a set of custom built rods and they where going to be $1200.00, ouch.

But what ever you do keep the CR around 9:1, alittle less would be OK but if you go lower you will loose a lot of bottom end torque which is what you daily driving is going to mostly see. It will also hurt spool up of the turbo if you go down to 8:1 or lower. If the dished turbo 2.2 gets you 8.75 on a 198 rod that would be perfect if you can get a forged version of it and wanted to keep the cost within reason. I think the MOPAR rod with ARP bolts & shot penning them is what Cameron used & he made 600hp plus so they would work very well. Its all how far do you want go.

Working the combustion chamber to get out all the rough edges will help with detination also, although the slant doesnt have alot of problem in that area anyway as far as the Chamber, but every little bit helps. And with EFI you can control things very good and get timing just where it likes it along with the A/f. The right combo I believe would suprise many people, most go with a turbo off of some factory 4cly engine but these are not very effecent. The better the turbo the more you will get out of it on low boost. Its not the boost that really makes your power its the amount of air flow & how cool the charge is. Bigger = better, but to big = lag. You could very easy make 400hp on low boost with the right setup.

A nother good thing about the long rod setup is that it will help the Slant head with the air flow & the cylinder wall should last much better from the better rod angle. There is alot of pros & cons over long versus short rods. If the head can flow it the short rod "MAY" make better power on a boosted setup, but its something that many debate about over & over. But on the slant I think the long rod is so much easier on the engine & helps it get some RPM which helps get more out of a turbo that it would be my personel choice anyway on a hot street setup. If it was drag only and I had the head to flow enough I "might" would go with a short rod.


Jess

Yep.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Are these wide enough to fit a forged crank slant six? I'm not versed enough to remember what the rod journal width is, and right now I'm not even certain if I am correct on the width of this rod. Way past my bedtime.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Yes they are.

I have all my specs on my other computor which my son has barrowed at the moment. But if I am remembering right the slant is 1.014 & these are 1.017. So they are .003 wider which would give you room to even get your side clearrance just where you wanted. You might take just a little off the rod or you might not have to , depends on the crank and its wear. If the crank had to be turned the sides could be sized the match the rods if it had to.

I have not put a set of these rods in a slant yet, but if you do all the number crunching they come out to be a fit with the right bearing installed. It is a Big Block Chebby "SIZED" rod for a Big Block Mopar. They take the mopar crank and make the jurnal the chebby size to help with clearance of the block when stroking. And even though they used Chebby sized diameter they used Mopar width. The Chebby diameter is 2.200 & the Slant is 2.187 if I am remembering right. So you have .013 to make up. A .020 bearing and a .007 undercut on the crank puts it all where it needs to be. And you do use a Big Block Chebby rod bearing. Or you could get Clevitte to make you a .013 over Chebby bearing and run it on a Standard crank.

.007 underturn on a crank is very little & even a good standard crank that has a lot of use probably could use a little straightening from a cut. Unless you have a exceptional crank that you didnt want to turn at all this .007 would probably be the best way. I always have my cranks strightened when they are turned along with a line hone of the block. This way I get a very close clearance setting, I try for .001 to .0015 for oil clearance and seem to have very good luck with it. I have had nitrous big block motors that where raced & street driven that I put 100000 miles on & on tear down because the rings & pistons where gone the crank & bearings still looked like the day I put them in. With this much luck from doing this I have always considered alittle machine work to the crank was a good think. But some people like to run a unturned standard crank, if in good enough shape this would be great so ordering the .013 or what ever size you thought you needed to abtain the oil clearance you was after would be good also.


These rods to me would be good for a custom piston, I think they had a 990 pin size so you would have to have the pistons sized this way. And if I am remembering right around a 1.500 compression hieght on the piston would be needed.



Jess

How much CR can E85 handle? I doubt that I'd run E85 for a daily driver, but E85 availability can be a safety net that could help if
you've built a weekend race motor that's on the edge.

Tim

Hm... he ate a head gasket for lunch yesterday... guess it was the latter option.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion