Slant Six Forum :: Motor still pinging

By the way, the Offy 4 bbl intake doesn't have a connection to the exhaust manifold,

With an allen (hex) key inserted into the vacuum can's hose nipple. Turn clockwise to tighten. But I agree with the diagnostic technique advised above: Disconnect the vacuum advance, plug the hose, and see if it still pings.

"BTW, if you are running the metal ring washers on your plugs, it will cause them to run hot...remove them!"

Quote:

"BTW, if you are running the metal ring washers on your plugs, it will cause them to run hot...remove them!"

Just to jump in here with a few quick questions, why do the metal rings(which I assumed were for sealing purposes) cause the plugs to "run hot"?

And also the adjustable vacuum advance, is this only found on Mopar Performance distributors?

I sent you that distributor I got from you at the race.
I welded-up the slots and recurved it, that should solve the problem.
Set it to get 28 degrees total.
DD

I thought I might jump in here.....

Your build is similar to mine 9:25CR Comp 264... 2.25 exhaust ...BBD .

The BBD will work fine with your cam and CR. In fact I think its perfect.

It took me a few tries to get my advance curve right so I could run on regular fuel. My car actually runs better on 87 with the latest curve than it did on premium and the stock curve.

You should be able to run 87 without pinging with the right curve.

I had to disconnect the stock vacuum advance to even test drive with stock curve.

I bet Dougs new curve will get you on the beam nicely.

Quote:

dan, you sure clockwise tightens the vac pod?

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:19 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: By the way, the Offy 4 bbl intake doesn't have a connection to the exhaust manifold, Yeah, it does.

Author:	argentina-slantsixer [ Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:44 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: With an allen (hex) key inserted into the vacuum can's hose nipple. Turn clockwise to tighten. But I agree with the diagnostic technique advised above: Disconnect the vacuum advance, plug the hose, and see if it still pings. dan, you sure clockwise tightens the vac pod?

Author:	79AspenSuperSix [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:32 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: "BTW, if you are running the metal ring washers on your plugs, it will cause them to run hot...remove them!" Just to jump in here with a few quick questions, why do the metal rings(which I assumed were for sealing purposes) cause the plugs to "run hot"? And also the adjustable vacuum advance, is this only found on Mopar Performance distributors? I'm following this thread because on hotter days mine will also ping in Drive under load. And every time I have ever pulled one of my Champions(which I personally always have had good luck with) they look tech book perfect. I've just always figured its the lousy gas they manufacture. My state doesn't do much to assure proper octane levels.

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:02 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: "BTW, if you are running the metal ring washers on your plugs, it will cause them to run hot...remove them!" Just to jump in here with a few quick questions, why do the metal rings(which I assumed were for sealing purposes) cause the plugs to "run hot"? The '63-up heads have a redesigned counterbore at the top of the spark plug hole; the spark plug tube itself seals the plug, and if you use the washer it interferes with heat transfer from the plug to the head. The '60-'62 heads don't have the special counterbore and need to use the plug gaskets. This is factory info; following it has always produced best results for me. Quote: And also the adjustable vacuum advance, is this only found on Mopar Performance distributors? Pretty sure most electronic-ignition vacuum cans (at least the original ones) have the adjustment capability.

Author:	RDJ [ Wed Sep 20, 2006 2:16 pm ]
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So I pulled the vacuum hose off and plugged it. Still pinging at the higher loads, but seems like less. It has cooled down to the 90's, so that could also be the reason, but this moring it was in the 70's when I drove to work and still some pinging once the car was good and warm. By plugging the vacuum line I assumed the vacuum line that runs from the carb to the distributor, I pulled the line from the carb side and plugged it. Was this the correct way to plug it? I haven't pulled my plugs yet while pinging, was going to do that today on my way home from work, but I neglected to bring my tools.

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Author:	argentina-slantsixer [ Wed Sep 20, 2006 2:44 pm ]
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a little differential diagnosis... did or didn't ping when it had the 4 barrels? maybe you're just short on flow with that carburetor! if you did some changes after swapping the BBD on it, we're stumped and we proly need to start all the dialing in over again (carburetion, timing curve and initial/total timing figures, etc)

Author:	RDJ [ Wed Sep 20, 2006 3:22 pm ]
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To answer your question about why I have a 2 bbl instead of the 4 bbl. The car I bought was pretty much a wreck with blown motor (window the size of a baseball in the block), but there was no rust and the interior was in good shape. I planned getting a stock rebuild and super six it. I had already picked up the super six setup and rebuilt the BBD, then I contacted Doug about getting the mild MP cam from his cam grinder. He had this fresh engine for sale, already done, had run it for a short while, and replaced it with a faster motor. I only live about a 5 hour drive from him, so I went and picked it up, but of course the engine didn't come with his intake/4 bbl carb (it came with a one bbl setup as a temporary loaner until I got my stuff on). So, since I don't have an endless supply of money, and had a lot of work to do on the car, I put it together with what I had already bought and prepared. Now that I have run the car for a while, I will probably continue with the 4bbl, dual exhaust, but I will have to accumulate parts a little slowly, then put them all together in a couple/few months. In the meantime, I am goin to try to increase the fuel supply to my engine with some bigger jets/metering and see what that does. BTW, is there a consensus on what is the best 4 bbl carb to use? I notice a lot of people like the Holley 390. This engine origially used a 600 cfm holley, but I don't know if I want to go that big. Is there a 4 bbl that is compatable with the super six kickdown linkage? What are the best cars to find the "proper" (if there is such a thing) carbs at the junkyard. the junkyard is full of Chevys and Fords, but Mopars are few.

Author:	Doctor Dodge [ Wed Sep 20, 2006 11:45 pm ]
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I sent you that distributor I got from you at the race. I welded-up the slots and recurved it, that should solve the problem. Set it to get 28 degrees total. DD

Author:	sandy in BC [ Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:38 am ]
Post subject:
I thought I might jump in here..... Your build is similar to mine 9:25CR Comp 264... 2.25 exhaust ...BBD . The BBD will work fine with your cam and CR. In fact I think its perfect. It took me a few tries to get my advance curve right so I could run on regular fuel. My car actually runs better on 87 with the latest curve than it did on premium and the stock curve. You should be able to run 87 without pinging with the right curve. I had to disconnect the stock vacuum advance to even test drive with stock curve. I bet Dougs new curve will get you on the beam nicely.

Author:	RDJ [ Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:56 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I sent you that distributor I got from you at the race. I welded-up the slots and recurved it, that should solve the problem. Set it to get 28 degrees total. DD Thanks Doug!

Author:	RDJ [ Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:42 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I thought I might jump in here..... Your build is similar to mine 9:25CR Comp 264... 2.25 exhaust ...BBD . The BBD will work fine with your cam and CR. In fact I think its perfect. It took me a few tries to get my advance curve right so I could run on regular fuel. My car actually runs better on 87 with the latest curve than it did on premium and the stock curve. You should be able to run 87 without pinging with the right curve. I had to disconnect the stock vacuum advance to even test drive with stock curve. I bet Dougs new curve will get you on the beam nicely. Thanks for the info Sandy!

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Sep 30, 2006 10:27 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: With an allen (hex) key inserted into the vacuum can's hose nipple. Turn clockwise to tighten. But I agree with the diagnostic technique advised above: Disconnect the vacuum advance, plug the hose, and see if it still pings. dan, you sure clockwise tightens the vac pod? Nope, I'm not sure. I was going off the top of my head and could have got that bassackwards.

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